tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87898006486423889152024-03-18T08:18:40.121+01:00Ana y el Perfume Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.comBlogger180125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-68417471581476337092024-03-17T10:46:00.001+01:002024-03-17T10:46:36.082+01:00The gardenia, Catherine <p> As many of you may already know, some floral notes used in perfumery must be obtained by synthesis because the main characteristic odor of the fresh flower cannot be naturally extracted. These flowers are referred to as muted and this category includes carnation, gardenia, hyacinth, lily, honeysuckle, violet, lily of the valley. They are often recreated as accords parting from other flowers and compounds. My absolute favorite white floral accord is gardenia's and I've been thriving for a long time to find one to make me feel like I'm sticking the nose into an actual flower, like for example Yves Rocher's Pur Désir Gardénia managed to. That one was the perfect reconstruction for gardenia, in my humble opinion, although it's, sadly, long discontinued and difficult to track down.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkfH_ijXIwPfIASPUvJKnAZBh8hKY3WrpU0wMaEQm6tOVnXm8oF5YbCl0qSQ-Q8snF-96fUhC2RDvOSvab7g3gzzz93zpFS-q8MJQ5KsIJx8VPlQfSxaqXyTOO4jH8pH0uG35eRyHsSwA2gTc_kerfBidihFVfqeaRZMGCdwp2sAIeW-VOwiaQhJVGOKw/s1800/IMG_20240316_175521_436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkfH_ijXIwPfIASPUvJKnAZBh8hKY3WrpU0wMaEQm6tOVnXm8oF5YbCl0qSQ-Q8snF-96fUhC2RDvOSvab7g3gzzz93zpFS-q8MJQ5KsIJx8VPlQfSxaqXyTOO4jH8pH0uG35eRyHsSwA2gTc_kerfBidihFVfqeaRZMGCdwp2sAIeW-VOwiaQhJVGOKw/s320/IMG_20240316_175521_436.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>Placed in Le Donne de Masque collection, Catherine by Caroline Dumur for Masque Milano came in as the most beautiful surprise at Esxence and it opened a new door to gardenia for me. Its elegance is almost palpable. The composition is outstanding, every compound that was used to recreate the gardenia is being present in the picture, without overshadowing its core. Zooming in, jasmine and tuberose add their opulent and intoxicating scents with floral, lactonic and sweet nuances; eugenol, the piquancy; indoles, the carnal bite. There are green and soft amber tonalities and equally fresh and clean facets that sum up the accord. All of the components shift their features throughout the whole fragrance creating a most beautiful roundness for its centerpiece. What makes gardenia's flowers stand out to the other white flowers, besides the indoles and creaminess, is their characteristic mushroomy-earthiness. At least to my nose. And in Catherine there's an ethereal earthiness lingering in the soft woods, as mushrooms trying to hide their bellies behind the grass. And that's la pièce de résistance. </p><p>Catherine follows faithfully its inspiration, Catherine Deneuve, being just as sophisticated, strong and fascinating as the actress is. </p><p>Catherine had me at gardenia and I decided to stick to it.</p><p>*Its scent will forever be associated with one of a kind humans i ever met and this adds even more value to its preciousness.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-19902339872866918892024-03-11T22:26:00.008+01:002024-03-17T10:59:58.792+01:00Esxence 2024, metamorphose?<p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMiXdrxgFRUrx2hjh934F1z4c0TFSFIJ6n_cSJbUTXyjNdQmQHObKrrK8aFbneWYv-aY-d3C7w0F1RTCHJQyhKlw7Om99Nlwg53tCf0cap59J1fm0776of0joy6l6wxU3zWKkw8gZeoRA9uvswKxnW7hX3bCgJrYUdbLMQbrrZ4N3iIwUK6fVK9rGvEI/s3021/IMG_20240310_205502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3021" data-original-width="2979" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMiXdrxgFRUrx2hjh934F1z4c0TFSFIJ6n_cSJbUTXyjNdQmQHObKrrK8aFbneWYv-aY-d3C7w0F1RTCHJQyhKlw7Om99Nlwg53tCf0cap59J1fm0776of0joy6l6wxU3zWKkw8gZeoRA9uvswKxnW7hX3bCgJrYUdbLMQbrrZ4N3iIwUK6fVK9rGvEI/s320/IMG_20240310_205502.jpg" width="316" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;">…on one hand, yes, on the other not so much. Yes to metamorphosing into a new venue, which offered more space and enough room to not elbow into each other despite the crowdings. Yes to not getting knocked-out on the first step at the entrance by any (punching) Ambro-woody materials. After years of enduring pain the air felt clearer and breathable again. Thankful for the importance accorded to the educational (purpose) companies like L’Osmoteque, Le Nez, CFF and other magazines dedicated to perfumery and also for the large conference room, where some of the most interesting workshops and experience labs were held. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3wKrpe6tICs-OagwJVLUde3dXlwrW-p4DQhia6f3iM2f5WpU6k5UkMigtHOF9_NfEI5phDZ34MZSVwzbv86mYtxEhyphenhyphena3OadmVOikVwlLCCih7e0rJ4qPXMSKXUp10hCRNxrqgLGDNrLKVxQH6Pu3fIRazz9OmlN1dhuEIqT2zXMNeKX_z60jTWKGgXQ/s4624/IMG20240307104354.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3wKrpe6tICs-OagwJVLUde3dXlwrW-p4DQhia6f3iM2f5WpU6k5UkMigtHOF9_NfEI5phDZ34MZSVwzbv86mYtxEhyphenhyphena3OadmVOikVwlLCCih7e0rJ4qPXMSKXUp10hCRNxrqgLGDNrLKVxQH6Pu3fIRazz9OmlN1dhuEIqT2zXMNeKX_z60jTWKGgXQ/s320/IMG20240307104354.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06F0TdOgQb5rRGP2iQ15EAbchXPQ4xQbmMfRcuCxoc8LM8DPCngUnuUoc7xGyvse1OfcuN7HDSKawtFK882oP7rYDqt7LMEm6pCgHbv7trbwgIGaMu7vTYqugQJV5X8SJur4HiKJFjWIgf4pXpOOoMwWCKcXdG8RVm8LSc_wniSxiRaNniJaayQqev4g/s4624/IMG20240309111852.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06F0TdOgQb5rRGP2iQ15EAbchXPQ4xQbmMfRcuCxoc8LM8DPCngUnuUoc7xGyvse1OfcuN7HDSKawtFK882oP7rYDqt7LMEm6pCgHbv7trbwgIGaMu7vTYqugQJV5X8SJur4HiKJFjWIgf4pXpOOoMwWCKcXdG8RVm8LSc_wniSxiRaNniJaayQqev4g/s320/IMG20240309111852.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOz9tPYCDlD4mqZsS1jaLhszaLrd5QxwvJDAeKP5-uPvfZ2yWsW8RivUkhYmriQ_V1ZyGV2dUgclpo8W23_Lek3rKA0HU0cGVOb0xY838Ro4UM2g6TE4PUOBnX3JDKv4-cdMzl_YgU-j5qkSCBEojGRJIMV4qDm2iqDQLohUtgy9_O9-JAt0swRdHrYUI/s4624/IMG20240309104814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOz9tPYCDlD4mqZsS1jaLhszaLrd5QxwvJDAeKP5-uPvfZ2yWsW8RivUkhYmriQ_V1ZyGV2dUgclpo8W23_Lek3rKA0HU0cGVOb0xY838Ro4UM2g6TE4PUOBnX3JDKv4-cdMzl_YgU-j5qkSCBEojGRJIMV4qDm2iqDQLohUtgy9_O9-JAt0swRdHrYUI/s320/IMG20240309104814.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRTSDqMpnFhqPy9qQx5ZX6VPeC3E0j50FhF0TXl6TycKWSiayLloYLc9vLc8xnOLEU8PWUT4E8SrFUPd8SYrMxJMOvonNFoJuL-CGt7N012nGCkqQLvaUeoLH5dNMpLce9khIYQQaHdLKeIotC5rYXl6XYBnXNFrrJ3IIsWb4gOX-Bk8lxPNX6RiwlPo/s4624/IMG20240308102154.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRTSDqMpnFhqPy9qQx5ZX6VPeC3E0j50FhF0TXl6TycKWSiayLloYLc9vLc8xnOLEU8PWUT4E8SrFUPd8SYrMxJMOvonNFoJuL-CGt7N012nGCkqQLvaUeoLH5dNMpLce9khIYQQaHdLKeIotC5rYXl6XYBnXNFrrJ3IIsWb4gOX-Bk8lxPNX6RiwlPo/s320/IMG20240308102154.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><span><br /></span></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">No to the lack of opportunities of the organization towards the smaller brands (with no investors behind); if we want creativity and quality in perfumery, they need as much support as possible. A booth at the event costs an arm and a leg and although I noticed more representation on their side compared to past years, the crowds (buyers included) were showing more interest towards the strategically placed money-makers (aka ostentatious presentations + grotesquely unbalanced liquids), than to the artistic/finer compositions. The gold diggers had, in my humble opinion, an 80% presence compared to those that dared to use their inner voice in a more creative and qualitative way. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">(If you really, truly enjoy fragrance and appreciate its art, pay the money for what's inside, never saw anyone carrying around a bling-bling bottle in a coffin cage only to show off.)</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">THE highlight, as in past years, was the human connection and the kindness of people I met and will forever stay close to my heart. Like Michelle Tillis Lederman wrote in 11 Laws of Likability, “<i>It is through the strength of what is genuine that meaningful connections build into relationships</i>.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">(Over the years I got better at staying away from synthetic sympathies.)</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span>Second highlight was, of course, perfume. Good ones. And I'm sure i missed quite a few. I </span></span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;">didn't even bothered to stop at the all-of-our-fragrances-share-the-same-base booths given that this year a total of 360 brands were present at Esxence and neither my small feet had enough force to carry my body where they were or my brain to be fed up with nonsense. And, besides, I wasn't in the mood to lose all of my nose hairs. Although… Nevermind. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Enough of the bad, we are familiar with their shadows, let's start with the good things.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>The best newcomers, in my books:</i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Tombstone Fragrances</i> and <i>BU FENG</i> - two brands from China under the same umbrella, whose concept showcased coherence between storytelling, decorations and fragrances. Tombstone Fragrances “for the living and the survived, towards the fear or welcoming of death.” The name for each of their fragrance couldn't fell flat, literally.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>“No Need to Come by”, “Sing at my Funeral”, “Sweet Coffin”, “His Lordship’s Backyard Roses” </i>and<i> “3 Feet 5” </i>make justice to their inspiration and are immediate attention grabbers. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4yGlLmICDCtIYkbnh9rgMvgwiuThENAXekwvND8N2KnjFIuA49RyOsOCnKe4O-EPP64EI4fKR2QCrJ80_m8hmbirTADcysTAulnGnTenxAi3R7qGwq72q6ovel-7UgJ8IGf6IoHP1EUsHpl5zKHr-E3-4xAZU09IdBywX86MeoqJtyBzNcOVFmkQADQ/s4624/IMG20240307112044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4yGlLmICDCtIYkbnh9rgMvgwiuThENAXekwvND8N2KnjFIuA49RyOsOCnKe4O-EPP64EI4fKR2QCrJ80_m8hmbirTADcysTAulnGnTenxAi3R7qGwq72q6ovel-7UgJ8IGf6IoHP1EUsHpl5zKHr-E3-4xAZU09IdBywX86MeoqJtyBzNcOVFmkQADQ/s320/IMG20240307112044.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">BU FENG (Catching the Wind) explores Chinese culture through Chinese folktales on heroism and heroes. For the moment they offer three fragrances: <i>Drunken Jade, Elegant Jade and Holding the Sword. </i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;">(I searched for the expression on the internet but i only found bù fēn, which means not divided, unisex.)</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil8LB9GPqVmtYNl8l-7ZybabSyJtM_JM2mz6_saYoWAlIhdC0cvjBcAL3O7MVaZF3KMaeQaRsryOG47HFOSafc6MibPXzDtsZ4kg3MRxg41R1UNJE9ca3Mda_7C8SlySXGGWcuAqIvOTyMIHT_U0cEl3GEyRmdBNQuN7ouPXo3gcXXNGBt3T-s9Gb1I_w/s4624/IMG20240307111520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil8LB9GPqVmtYNl8l-7ZybabSyJtM_JM2mz6_saYoWAlIhdC0cvjBcAL3O7MVaZF3KMaeQaRsryOG47HFOSafc6MibPXzDtsZ4kg3MRxg41R1UNJE9ca3Mda_7C8SlySXGGWcuAqIvOTyMIHT_U0cEl3GEyRmdBNQuN7ouPXo3gcXXNGBt3T-s9Gb1I_w/s320/IMG20240307111520.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Xiao Lan, creative designer and perfumer for the majority of the fragrances, introduced me to each of the fragrances in both lines with a grace I'll never forget.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">(At the same booth I had the chance to smell two beautiful natural fragrance-oils, whose names I don't recall, that offered an extraordinary olfactory experience.) </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-18f9-C1EZTXAb9fqNJl4ykM26sBqIgwuec5gmJu3fnXPWFljm0PFOE63axF1_Jkh1RWCrHJShhV_U7ixdMyVDHuBRwSOz9fV0OaqF30evfhhELF4M6EsXV71QZS06WJxDiZkouPaRpx-t0EbCbq-XDnEuH27PIvzNs9Ff0HYO8F1zkHDaBzwyrEG8Cs/s4624/IMG20240307111508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-18f9-C1EZTXAb9fqNJl4ykM26sBqIgwuec5gmJu3fnXPWFljm0PFOE63axF1_Jkh1RWCrHJShhV_U7ixdMyVDHuBRwSOz9fV0OaqF30evfhhELF4M6EsXV71QZS06WJxDiZkouPaRpx-t0EbCbq-XDnEuH27PIvzNs9Ff0HYO8F1zkHDaBzwyrEG8Cs/s320/IMG20240307111508.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><p></p><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Onskad, </i>a brand whose fragrances are inspired by women fashion and fashion icons over the decades. My favorites where the 50s and the 80s (Pricess Diana).</span><div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoSgk5pdc1Xvj_XGgIwVxgdxYdCXvGr6w4lEq8UOjdySzxTdmo1OMAaTC9EF6olpejKl0OTBVZ8vXB_lKhqm7UhVLPbBF8sWQ-5MVxmp4hZtO7LJaETEimyxZo1WudktlJwehb6NWCiO_8UcNGNv4EFBcViZIliKRyTOzmzyF8xBfOfVrrKOZYIawsFY/s4624/IMG20240308120459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoSgk5pdc1Xvj_XGgIwVxgdxYdCXvGr6w4lEq8UOjdySzxTdmo1OMAaTC9EF6olpejKl0OTBVZ8vXB_lKhqm7UhVLPbBF8sWQ-5MVxmp4hZtO7LJaETEimyxZo1WudktlJwehb6NWCiO_8UcNGNv4EFBcViZIliKRyTOzmzyF8xBfOfVrrKOZYIawsFY/s320/IMG20240308120459.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>New (or upcoming) launches that caught my attention:</i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Violette Kew by Le Jardin Retrouvée, Pelagos by Dusita Parfums, The Mariner's Rhyme by Francesca Bianchi, Phyltre by Hiram Green, Dormir al Sol by Frassaï, Catherine by Masque Milano, Blanc de Chine by Parfumeurs du Monde, Magic Mushrooms by Bohoboco, Hyperion by Rubini Profumi (although it's still under works), Cuir 404 by Indult, Santal Wagasaii by Maison Encens.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Le Jardin Retrouvée had one of the most endearing presentations for its new launch, which started with a short session of meditation held by Clara herself, followed by the revelation of the new fragrance’s name - <i>Violette Kew</i> by the hands of its creator, Maxence Mouette. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyqlw2XdoYe32aRoTzuk-UsaHIouCJccsrT0odeoUecTrwKoNACuEvEKkG9pQ8nfSQOIYMso-IqHrlEj13ZSQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span>The event culminated with everyone drooling over Clara's violet ice cream, which was delicious. </span></span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;">The fragrance? Delicious as well… in the most sensual possible way. Nothing to do with candy-sweetness nor powdery innocence. Cumin and a soft leather accord turn it upside down. I assure you, all the other violets are blushing.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Pissara dared to venture into creating a masculine fragrance. We all know what she does with the flowers, but did she managed to shine the woody aromatics? </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5oJjTPcsflvUqTpBQAreLzdzGOnhkGG0uFVXg19SmDCVmjEDxgdxryN1WwpZ-9ea8oFCXPXidaxA1Zb9OLaJodMesleO5scTYPZ09GsIvTY_m75v2O1hUObSFe11gllfBdVOAJsgAno1JM2tihAdBWZEobwS2a5pDx63hpanw21cXm_YijTurgcq3zP0/s4624/IMG20240308160219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5oJjTPcsflvUqTpBQAreLzdzGOnhkGG0uFVXg19SmDCVmjEDxgdxryN1WwpZ-9ea8oFCXPXidaxA1Zb9OLaJodMesleO5scTYPZ09GsIvTY_m75v2O1hUObSFe11gllfBdVOAJsgAno1JM2tihAdBWZEobwS2a5pDx63hpanw21cXm_YijTurgcq3zP0/s320/IMG20240308160219.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">With <i>Pelagos</i> Pissara takes us in a different direction than she has us used, a woody aromatic with an aquatic touch. People might be surprised and dismiss it only based on that and it wouldn't be fair to the beautiful composition, which goes on the classic side with a present touch. It's uplifting and breezy, grounded and aired. It's the gentleman from once that adapted its cane and top had to the modern times.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">The <i>Mariner's Rhymes</i> is Francesca's way of adding a missing piece to the collection in her own terms. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx26OamauVS1Vg8G-NGW0h-LmSFatsSFMuUYX2IFPAmnIHgy0jo5DCzQqJNXt3qypy-EPN0CpTZW8Bf_KxmmILusNtgUT7ulzo2F3tdfSpLxGegWy1iu25pm1EZgxS0o3CNc4pIUc1WMEtgmv__GHbieMPuArGYoXFKjv6-4dkWSxSPugo4Ipadjq0Aag/s4624/IMG20240307110759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx26OamauVS1Vg8G-NGW0h-LmSFatsSFMuUYX2IFPAmnIHgy0jo5DCzQqJNXt3qypy-EPN0CpTZW8Bf_KxmmILusNtgUT7ulzo2F3tdfSpLxGegWy1iu25pm1EZgxS0o3CNc4pIUc1WMEtgmv__GHbieMPuArGYoXFKjv6-4dkWSxSPugo4Ipadjq0Aag/s320/IMG20240307110759.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">It's marine, yes, but done in her unique style. It's oakmoss grown on damp woods bathed by stormy waves. Saltiness pierced by sun rays and bottles of rum floating adrift.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">In my culture carnation is often associated with death, the flower is its portrayal and this takes it to the grave. I never allowed this detail to affect my judgment towards the flower itself nor the fragrances centered around a carnation accord.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">On the contrary, they always stirred my curiosity given there are so many different accords to recreate the smell of the flower and one really has to love carnations in order to enjoy <i>Phyltre</i> by Hiram Green, since the fragrance is its mirrored reflection.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Dormir al Sol </i>by Frassaï made Milan 's gloomy sky glow. It's a mimosa dressed in heavier ingredients. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejIrfimHyPl7aPZy_QnnTaXlW55jv0cdKQEZC3IEJZY6gE0bAd0wbjfvyJtbMaNsHMlcGJMxZ4P6KkCwlFPtNU9DGOra2S4RjVrIS7fPYaMQGI_Yx_eGvD6g6n4WshX_Mv1eqTTGtB6UGpwvVmcUpdJAtt7kCuCqbxRPRkZHrDNA6baGhkPqCIZi6Pkw/s4624/IMG20240306153137.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejIrfimHyPl7aPZy_QnnTaXlW55jv0cdKQEZC3IEJZY6gE0bAd0wbjfvyJtbMaNsHMlcGJMxZ4P6KkCwlFPtNU9DGOra2S4RjVrIS7fPYaMQGI_Yx_eGvD6g6n4WshX_Mv1eqTTGtB6UGpwvVmcUpdJAtt7kCuCqbxRPRkZHrDNA6baGhkPqCIZi6Pkw/s320/IMG20240306153137.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">It instantly put a smile on my face with its joyful scent and charmed me with the complexity of its composition. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Gardenia is my favorite white flower in perfumery and I was pleasantly surprised to find two outstanding fragrances with the flower’s facets displayed outstandingly. <i>Catherine</i> by Caroline Dumur for Masque Milano, one of the three new additions to Le Donne di Masque collection, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tvjHJnwC-ej9NoRJmEFb9IZiriDYv518-E6xsqr35TqJrvmcP5kBuT1fxrBqBeY7KkGAI7Sv3CIWg1BJSZ_4rRkRFCVLqIUR2PmMlUS4Unz2n-datxQGHWGAuig_Tl3VKC-UM2Q0lT8E7zZvn_oX1XEejhnmjbD7lR6L6i15ZxFmmztRDaKaCIJ9iMM/s4624/IMG20240307143757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tvjHJnwC-ej9NoRJmEFb9IZiriDYv518-E6xsqr35TqJrvmcP5kBuT1fxrBqBeY7KkGAI7Sv3CIWg1BJSZ_4rRkRFCVLqIUR2PmMlUS4Unz2n-datxQGHWGAuig_Tl3VKC-UM2Q0lT8E7zZvn_oX1XEejhnmjbD7lR6L6i15ZxFmmztRDaKaCIJ9iMM/s320/IMG20240307143757.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">and <i>Blanc de Chine</i> by Patrice Revillard for Parfumeurs du Monde. My heart stood still and listen to their mermaid song.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Jv3P3kcUIJ1ETtqU8KynnbFC4poclLBd55vpaCLgosCp9Gs8lv3pq0_V6JdD1l75JGUpGcV-9dqjpVNuFs_xBlFovbGGmII7V-UnXwB3W4NeFAZ9FzobJjmawbRw_hS50VCQ8W2CbLp63L7LgaZeqL01pwI7VvqfgUDT8rovJRKSzGu26Y918bEVQfo/s4624/IMG20240308170334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Jv3P3kcUIJ1ETtqU8KynnbFC4poclLBd55vpaCLgosCp9Gs8lv3pq0_V6JdD1l75JGUpGcV-9dqjpVNuFs_xBlFovbGGmII7V-UnXwB3W4NeFAZ9FzobJjmawbRw_hS50VCQ8W2CbLp63L7LgaZeqL01pwI7VvqfgUDT8rovJRKSzGu26Y918bEVQfo/s320/IMG20240308170334.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Two very different gardenias, each marvelous in its own way.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Magic Mushrooms</i>, Michał Gilbert Lach's latest creation for his own brand, Bohoboco, is the perfect depiction of an artistic fragrance. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9m-mbpN3E7mZvn77Bdie9YJYkFHKmAboHu5ex_KhzN_VcEWNWYKW_pJDcXvCqqDM0jQpgF2Ybpg1-gLFKHoSYcWnhT7rSO1oua8gQrR60hfqV6JWzGHWJyIy1gXSShFKHpdpm8havJ3o76NtAH-UKXrEGtrPPhRvIunjuEMRxvSYXCBiq-CYdqOBRWCg/s4624/IMG20240307114209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9m-mbpN3E7mZvn77Bdie9YJYkFHKmAboHu5ex_KhzN_VcEWNWYKW_pJDcXvCqqDM0jQpgF2Ybpg1-gLFKHoSYcWnhT7rSO1oua8gQrR60hfqV6JWzGHWJyIy1gXSShFKHpdpm8havJ3o76NtAH-UKXrEGtrPPhRvIunjuEMRxvSYXCBiq-CYdqOBRWCg/s320/IMG20240307114209.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">A fragrance that does justice to its name, I can't imagine a better suited name for this creation. It's weird but it takes you on an unique olfactive journey. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><div><span><br /></span></div><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span>Cuir 404 by Indult is actually a spicy vetiver with herbal tonalities. The notes weren't disclosed to me, so I'm basing my opinions on the smell itself. </span></span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;">T</span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;">here's bergamot and lemon in the beginning that adds a sour to bitter character to the top and some cloves to give a spicy touch to the woodier base. It's made to smell classical and timeless, fact that adds even more value for any vintage lover that wants to smell modern.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Maison Incense, an extremely underrated perfume brand with great creations in its range, launched three new fragrances: <i>Santal Wagasaii, Rose Ūmeii</i> and <i>Osmanthūs Shiborii</i>. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ha09HZI1UwSFr0Ecqf6ZfT9S8dCJWFOZx74VqCQ3sGrwW_soSSgTeWL_TtGBLA78xwNCFHlWNsY5rgSJp3q5AzX5FDjC9xBM6N1987YYiVMp2d-OHp62Td-oXs1W5lfr34KKOGwhFshn3_cTiWPwWyKH0XS9Gn_9PQg127Nx96JY7CMp8fNTk-h1iiM/s4624/IMG20240306143531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ha09HZI1UwSFr0Ecqf6ZfT9S8dCJWFOZx74VqCQ3sGrwW_soSSgTeWL_TtGBLA78xwNCFHlWNsY5rgSJp3q5AzX5FDjC9xBM6N1987YYiVMp2d-OHp62Td-oXs1W5lfr34KKOGwhFshn3_cTiWPwWyKH0XS9Gn_9PQg127Nx96JY7CMp8fNTk-h1iiM/s320/IMG20240306143531.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;">My favorite was Santal Wagasii, a surprising fragrance through its creamy woodiness and sparkling particles of citruses. Everything sits on an alive muskiness that heats and purrs...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Some of the new lunches i got the opportunity to smell outside the fair were</i>:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Anatole’s Lebreton upcoming line, <i>Freaky Fragrance</i>s. A dear friend and I have been lucky enough to be one of the first people to try three fragrances, which are not only different from each other but also from the main line, providing a different perspective of the perfumer’s exceptional skills.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U-GPHcV1NM-AL7ORaP5S4WqkZEl8lwIaWtkJqhAkEnA1Qbql1ysjJLEpDHctU9o-l7nenhAFeJK8Gtp08t3uC2Waj3-kIqqPGOk6lqpD9XOzaHueYZC1i3ZvH-ozfBlu7WXkThVDe0NEbZ52CE6RjSdDu9NWt8em_KwGo1Hp1CfpqqobKubqi9ouNvo/s4624/IMG20240307160638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U-GPHcV1NM-AL7ORaP5S4WqkZEl8lwIaWtkJqhAkEnA1Qbql1ysjJLEpDHctU9o-l7nenhAFeJK8Gtp08t3uC2Waj3-kIqqPGOk6lqpD9XOzaHueYZC1i3ZvH-ozfBlu7WXkThVDe0NEbZ52CE6RjSdDu9NWt8em_KwGo1Hp1CfpqqobKubqi9ouNvo/s320/IMG20240307160638.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to smell some creations of my friend and very talented parfumer, San Saruj. His fragrances are impressively well blended and finely executed.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqna8ELA9va_PVgyelIW53ZeLBAp4ILsYlXMoITnNPS-u1DDuiFkHd2vOVYcgpK5EV1-peCMIXu8oi0nrZyPjqJSpyAAuyJMwowvkvXDM0dRHuwbfjlTKPsD_0vRGaWYaCt-um9cH2CaqKhBxrFi31rV4LljIHnVkDJjB7UDTjVeVBFCiEPDiAwzEvkNc/s4624/IMG20240307173811.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqna8ELA9va_PVgyelIW53ZeLBAp4ILsYlXMoITnNPS-u1DDuiFkHd2vOVYcgpK5EV1-peCMIXu8oi0nrZyPjqJSpyAAuyJMwowvkvXDM0dRHuwbfjlTKPsD_0vRGaWYaCt-um9cH2CaqKhBxrFi31rV4LljIHnVkDJjB7UDTjVeVBFCiEPDiAwzEvkNc/s320/IMG20240307173811.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Gallivant will introduce a limited edition fragrance called <i>Nida </i>(in the near future). </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbR3RfjdiDBCmoG2R3jcN__eZe28zNw5NQlano4jh8bGPwIOmJIliQz0m9-mUP6JgKgpk0y_K_fcrEoVSRsMMPlGwNpCQWw2jv68TN0c9GA1IFTQTT-B-hsKq4ijbV36ITW2R-bJW_rveYnq9npGjquccuL1UHyM-7QhNwom4w1OtE59fUYM_6htgLCE/s4624/IMG20240308125546.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbR3RfjdiDBCmoG2R3jcN__eZe28zNw5NQlano4jh8bGPwIOmJIliQz0m9-mUP6JgKgpk0y_K_fcrEoVSRsMMPlGwNpCQWw2jv68TN0c9GA1IFTQTT-B-hsKq4ijbV36ITW2R-bJW_rveYnq9npGjquccuL1UHyM-7QhNwom4w1OtE59fUYM_6htgLCE/s320/IMG20240308125546.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">It's a soft floral fragrance with woody and ambery facets.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">I had a brief yet unforgettable encounter with David from Toskovat who handed me a few samples. <i>Last Birthday Cake</i> stood out to me last year when it was still in trials and it continues to be a favorite now that it was launched. The fragrance shows a clear evolution in terms of composition offering much more balance in the formula. Most gourmands go against my religion, but I wouldn't mind losing it over this one.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Palazzina Appiani hosted Nishane’s annual party in Milan and it shined the name of the brand in the night’s darkness. To say it was outstanding it's an understatement. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">Nishane added two new tuberose centered fragrances to their lines: <i>Shinanay</i> by Angelos Balamis, to the Experimental Collection, an animalic, dark and richer vision of the flower that takes the breath away </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLvf6TbNfs0tAnxK1y0yks2YTYH9wLZY9jyVNIEzkd83qDyc6sChmQPAK9NS6OaZ2czmEubnBilXkwaMpoVqONF1ozcPTVan1c3LT46JrYLz5xZIWB5rfao3rvVvjP5zUqhD9d8KYdC4lDDuz_goM7b6UrYC1GfofUof0-15YQDOPo0peJcquN9Tbdhg/s4624/IMG20240306205158.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLvf6TbNfs0tAnxK1y0yks2YTYH9wLZY9jyVNIEzkd83qDyc6sChmQPAK9NS6OaZ2czmEubnBilXkwaMpoVqONF1ozcPTVan1c3LT46JrYLz5xZIWB5rfao3rvVvjP5zUqhD9d8KYdC4lDDuz_goM7b6UrYC1GfofUof0-15YQDOPo0peJcquN9Tbdhg/s320/IMG20240306205158.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">and to the X Collection, <i>Tuberóza X</i> by Dominique Ropion a clean and voluptuous rendition to the flower. Both, masterful compositions. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2WCJ0QKtTGVJ5ZOiuxfp8ColChBk2oXLy7t0TZnN-XQjLJVm3WzA4APAlw5hvqlXB8zSNjyoDCPCfa6PTWbiH9ghLeHWtwWMcvPsaFLQ1zId9C0Rl71hMVpFZDJkVI4R7y8LTl4xl82SoRhn5F3MSgXi_wWvSv2LkZfXnEWo0kINuY7XcoDg-sgPgO0/s4624/IMG20240306205208.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2WCJ0QKtTGVJ5ZOiuxfp8ColChBk2oXLy7t0TZnN-XQjLJVm3WzA4APAlw5hvqlXB8zSNjyoDCPCfa6PTWbiH9ghLeHWtwWMcvPsaFLQ1zId9C0Rl71hMVpFZDJkVI4R7y8LTl4xl82SoRhn5F3MSgXi_wWvSv2LkZfXnEWo0kINuY7XcoDg-sgPgO0/s320/IMG20240306205208.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Time Machine</i> by Renier R. Mendez for Le Frag. One way or another Aga always manages to surprise us with her fragrances. Their quirkiness is undeniable and each’s uniqueness unwraps bits of Aga’s flamboyant personality. After briefly trying Time Machine, I might have affirmed it as my favorite in the range. I must retest it, but I'm usually in the right at first sniff. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Things i re-smelled and still collaborate with my soul:</i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;"><i>Shah'Ryar</i> by Rania J. You haven't smelled rich and dense if you haven't tried this one. I was hesitant a</span></span><span style="white-space-collapse: preserve;">bout the presence of a caramel accord but it adds the right level of sweetness to the spices and although it contains a considerable amount of a woody-ambery material, it's so skilfully blended with the rest of notes that i couldn't even notice it... It showed up on the blotter the second day after i sprayed it. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span><span style="font-family: times; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZnXUf6_-aPPlcP5K3T3EN8_rULV4sG57WeOkIjKA7LR7ZMtPk5kj7aZn0GjPMokdwn_SVCfbx8FlUHfq6qMIwah8Sv68M2zhyGxGSAinR3KU-rJS8DBqZbREA6WLhajGEywiFA5l7uFhyphenhyphenj20ds5HiE8Y03ZNpA5rYSWcqBV56BG2rxSKJ23TDkh8aIY/s4624/IMG20240308160423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZnXUf6_-aPPlcP5K3T3EN8_rULV4sG57WeOkIjKA7LR7ZMtPk5kj7aZn0GjPMokdwn_SVCfbx8FlUHfq6qMIwah8Sv68M2zhyGxGSAinR3KU-rJS8DBqZbREA6WLhajGEywiFA5l7uFhyphenhyphenj20ds5HiE8Y03ZNpA5rYSWcqBV56BG2rxSKJ23TDkh8aIY/s320/IMG20240308160423.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Tilia</i> by Olfactive Pharmacy. The olfactory journey that Tilia takes me on is unbeatable... I'm laying on a bench, back in my hometown, in the middle of June, while shadows of the linden flowers play cathing sunlights on my cheeks.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeFrTg7VyYYbsYmB_UJm0sFVZgxF75yY5Dkth2JVDYDJ_MyY5Fbm_Z2JBSeWXSG-jdno4msoD7P07d7wVUmT9oules3Ljg00RR03djIGE3seh180dEmScxwn7YUsJ3W8W_X9SOTaqefehkBxw2rfJCzNvXmqcJSbuvKRuMaoAt_EqSm3GE7wor5GgEtI/s4624/IMG20240309142150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeFrTg7VyYYbsYmB_UJm0sFVZgxF75yY5Dkth2JVDYDJ_MyY5Fbm_Z2JBSeWXSG-jdno4msoD7P07d7wVUmT9oules3Ljg00RR03djIGE3seh180dEmScxwn7YUsJ3W8W_X9SOTaqefehkBxw2rfJCzNvXmqcJSbuvKRuMaoAt_EqSm3GE7wor5GgEtI/s320/IMG20240309142150.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><p></p></div><div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Ribot</i> by Masque Milano, way out of my league and one of those rare birds in golden cages, is a leather à la Antoine Lie. The hay in it is just as luxurious as the delicate leather. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;">Alessandro left behind an unforgettable legacy for the perfume world. The seeds of the love and acceptance he gently planted over the years will endlessly bloom in our hearts. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdABQRyO_o4iV76DtQBT1gOPqzRkM_6OtuKQTXNh6e2xX8VuS-LBiiSr0l09-kn15gHemCwJalOzafgJ210uVbY2RV0D9KNrMawSyCpBaco8q7pNGWlQ-gnc23rmJqoHQYu4JsndP4odQjdwnITYBhn7VkgekCMMtn2dvTfDfJyFHmJcOAKRbsMT_AgU/s4624/IMG20240307144555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdABQRyO_o4iV76DtQBT1gOPqzRkM_6OtuKQTXNh6e2xX8VuS-LBiiSr0l09-kn15gHemCwJalOzafgJ210uVbY2RV0D9KNrMawSyCpBaco8q7pNGWlQ-gnc23rmJqoHQYu4JsndP4odQjdwnITYBhn7VkgekCMMtn2dvTfDfJyFHmJcOAKRbsMT_AgU/s320/IMG20240307144555.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><div><i>Ideo Parfumeurs</i> line was brought back to life last year after a tragic explosion destroyed a few years ago the brand's store and laboratory in Beirut. The owners had to pass the brand to other hands, who luckily for us did an amazing job at launching faithfully the original formulas.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlRE4DrTO2e_GMbeKm4N_aWn7rN60UJTpfH_YNLHm2zhlYu-_DL716UPAU6H88pOuYviswi4p4nJzJbO-QnCfZ238h3jmVEHX-qcZzOug5KvETNTwkuDq3hADtgsJQlYXagOd5TsJUXAhFt2BoZJgDWVWRLtFZHTmwy5nqNwaHYD6zdydku_lpK-9qIg/s4624/IMG20240308131722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlRE4DrTO2e_GMbeKm4N_aWn7rN60UJTpfH_YNLHm2zhlYu-_DL716UPAU6H88pOuYviswi4p4nJzJbO-QnCfZ238h3jmVEHX-qcZzOug5KvETNTwkuDq3hADtgsJQlYXagOd5TsJUXAhFt2BoZJgDWVWRLtFZHTmwy5nqNwaHYD6zdydku_lpK-9qIg/s320/IMG20240308131722.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">I metamorphosed into this year's Esxence. I absorbed all the energy, I took the good and left the bad behind, I smelled and enjoyed each experience to the fullest, I had fun and i laughed.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">My boots are not made for walking at the moment, but my mind is wandering…</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span><br /></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-40637512805625909932024-01-05T16:57:00.005+01:002024-01-05T16:57:58.595+01:00Épices by Miskeo Parfums<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p> An ode... To the classic masculine (scratch the latter) worn-by-anyone fragrances.</p><p>Épices by Miskeo Parfums didn't catch my nose from the beginning. It filtered into my quotidian rituals the day i wore it on one of the most tranquil hikes i ever had. Maybe it was the forest that pulled out and accentuated its woodiness and displayed it before my eyes in a way I haven't se(e)n.sed it before. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeVYi4rOFZNuqyH3c0fVhRsH33eAEACW2wAHBkla1Etxv7AO88u6D-Q5WrE5I3qlZCh_QiSoj-L9EdvP5NloDZ8Rd1OLFabfYRCiBCKI9DuC8DdiHh6eNBqTBrJIDZ34rbdwxdCfmwpMR-c1KQ5-ekITPRPI5x6Niz7PTzyLa-5oIjZyw87DVzxKVnso/s4624/IMG20220725123026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeVYi4rOFZNuqyH3c0fVhRsH33eAEACW2wAHBkla1Etxv7AO88u6D-Q5WrE5I3qlZCh_QiSoj-L9EdvP5NloDZ8Rd1OLFabfYRCiBCKI9DuC8DdiHh6eNBqTBrJIDZ34rbdwxdCfmwpMR-c1KQ5-ekITPRPI5x6Niz7PTzyLa-5oIjZyw87DVzxKVnso/s320/IMG20220725123026.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Or it might have been the blue sky or the peacefulness of my mind that placed and associated that image with Épices in my head. Whatever it was, It did the trick and the click. <p></p><p>It could pass undisguised as a fougère although it is mostly a woody fragrance gallivanting grounds of spices and resins. Characterized by a fresh scent, in the context of bitter and cold, and giving a slightly terpenic feel in its first minutes, rendered to my nose as verbena with its lemony and grassy tonalities, the fragrance bathes its coolness in the warmth of resins and the dry-inkness of oakmoss. It's just as accessible as a nap on the forest’s floor while in the village’s church the best incense is being burnt... If that sounds accesible.</p><p>Épices is composed with the subtlety and grace that characterize Marie's style of perfume making and fits in perfect harmony in Miskeo's range. Marie hammers down the walls of restrictions and prohibitions and manages to construct a classic with contemporary molecules. It's the kiss in the cheek given to the modern perfumery by its predecessor. </p><p>The fragrance isn't a mind stretcher, it has an introspective and well grounded composition, one has to surrender to the joie de vivre its ride provides.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-79255173247768701192024-01-05T16:48:00.008+01:002024-01-05T16:48:54.841+01:00Estrella del verano menguante<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvs3awFPfnPbv5sNexlmoJ8o_zNwQqm_PSLzYElj9yTsI18-mkzC_eOR7nTv647n_S1dJsK0Pjc0qIZ3GBIDUlv7zqCf5n_ybIRkJAmUOXMHcdw6LzdU81lWeEjxMzrgNS7A_KcWzYca0i5Z79sJNqA3T607osNtSeKYRKj7DKPKsSHTx-rh27yL8PHw/s4624/IMG20231225130629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvs3awFPfnPbv5sNexlmoJ8o_zNwQqm_PSLzYElj9yTsI18-mkzC_eOR7nTv647n_S1dJsK0Pjc0qIZ3GBIDUlv7zqCf5n_ybIRkJAmUOXMHcdw6LzdU81lWeEjxMzrgNS7A_KcWzYca0i5Z79sJNqA3T607osNtSeKYRKj7DKPKsSHTx-rh27yL8PHw/s320/IMG20231225130629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>I feel like when you smell some of @aprilaromatics fragrances your mind will naturally place it on an invisible pedestal.</p><p>Tanja's approach of perfume-making is distinctive, she understands and interprets spirituality in a way many other perfumers strive to capture, so organically to whom she is. </p><p><br /></p><p> Born and bred under April Aromatics' umbrella, Bohemian Spice smells of aged patchouli, of parched red wine and dust french kissing old wooden tables, of roots deeply lodged into the ground. It breathes the same air as Calling all Angels but exhales the scent of Indian Gods, in lieu of Holy Trinity'cradles.</p><p><br /></p><p>In Bohemian Spice, patchouli unveils all of its layers, mingling and spreading its features by harmonizing perfectly with the rest of the notes, using them as carriers of its genetic material. Despite its multiple shades, patchouli needs the other ingredients’ company, it relies on them to make it feel rich, thick, dark, warm, inviting, lived-in. Its chocolate hues are sprinkled with cinnamon, its woodiness hollowed with myrrh, its earthiness smoked with vetiver, its core sweetened with vanilla. </p><p>Bohemian Spice feels like the hug you long for, the laugh you need or the cry you want. </p><p>With either Bohemian Spice or Calling all Angels it's impossible to not experience emotions scorching through oneself, “...like that star of the waning summer who beyond all stars rises bathed in the ocean stream to glitter in brilliance.” (Homer, The Iliad)</p><p>*</p><p>Esp.</p><p>En cuando se perciben las fragancias de April Aromatics la imaginación las coloca naturalmente en un pedestal invisible.</p><p> El enfoque de Tanja en la elaboración de perfumes es distintivo: ella entiende e interpreta la espiritualidad en un estilo que muchos otros perfumistas se esfuerzan por capturar; de manera orgánica, tal como se define su ser.</p><p> Nacido y criado bajo el paraguas de April Aromatics, Bohemian Spice huele a pachulí añejo, a vino tinto reseco y polvo que besa viejas mesas de madera, a raíces profundamente incrustadas en el suelo. Respira el mismo aire que Calling all Angels pero exhala el aroma de los dioses indios, en lugar de las cunas de la Santísima Trinidad.</p><p> En Bohemian Spice, el pachulí revela todas sus capas, mezclándose y difundiendo sus rasgos y armonizando perfectamente con el resto de notas, utilizándolas como portadoras de su material genético. A pesar de sus múltiples matices, el pachulí necesita la compañía de los demás ingredientes; depende de ellos para que se sienta rico, espeso, oscuro, cálido, acogedor y habitado. Sus tonos chocolate están espolvoreados con canela, su madera ahuecada con mirra, su terroso ahumado con vetiver, su núcleo endulzado con vainilla.</p><p> Bohemian Spice se siente como el abrazo que se anhela, la risa que se necesita o el llanto deseado.</p><p> Con Bohemian Spice o Calling all Angels es imposible no experimentar las emociones abrasadoras a través de uno mismo, "... como esa estrella del verano menguante que más allá de todas las estrellas se eleva bañada en la corriente del océano para brillar con esplendor". (Homero, La Ilíada)</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-84721003810404386732024-01-05T16:44:00.003+01:002024-01-05T16:44:24.223+01:00Miyako <p>I must admit, if it hadn't been for Mr. Turin's getting back to blogging i wouldn't have heard of Miyako or Auphorie in 2016, although the fragrance won The Art and Olfaction Awards that year. I like to believe I'm not insusceptible, but despite (my) many divergent thoughts on Mr. Turin's ways of criticism, I'm not going to lie, his impressions had and still have quite an impact on me, given we seem to share almost the same taste when it comes to perfumes. A simple entry on the man's blog meant a click on the buy button from yours truly. That's how i ended up with the Auphorie sample set, in oil formulas back then, of which many are discontinued by now.</p><p> Miyako, the "complex and dramatic fragrance to treat that idiosyncratic soul within yourself", fully displayed to my olfactory receptors the richness of osmanthus. Years before Miyako, Nombre Noir timidly introduced me to osmanthus' nuances, albeit concealed by the presence of damascones. I was looking forward to exploring more tonalities of osmanthus that were left unrevealed, until Miyako appeared and pointed out to each piece missing from the whole picture. It had a visceral impact on me that i couldn't shake.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcolhF0JU_M7G4wggjIlYc-N1MGRsAaGEZkcTsvyggDkh5eVWTamgkOESaH9_0moBMT1H_-C0xC1r5ai-imsKmo_aJPUZBRR2187aPBWzDnof6vkXVav9B1a7_n7S1obpjBt6zrerRcf4CqcIFBGvvbVL3DbbOgvd9qzAgX8eGzhNfkrew_7g7pUGCYc/s4624/IMG20231225130047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcolhF0JU_M7G4wggjIlYc-N1MGRsAaGEZkcTsvyggDkh5eVWTamgkOESaH9_0moBMT1H_-C0xC1r5ai-imsKmo_aJPUZBRR2187aPBWzDnof6vkXVav9B1a7_n7S1obpjBt6zrerRcf4CqcIFBGvvbVL3DbbOgvd9qzAgX8eGzhNfkrew_7g7pUGCYc/s320/IMG20231225130047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Unarguably, a fragrance by itself, osmanthus unveils a bidimensional scent, interplayed between a more delicate vegetal, sweet, fruity, tea-like, honeyed, dried apricot feature and a headier side, where a velvety suede flashes its castoreum undertones to jasmine's greenest blooms and mild geranium. In Miyako all of these facets are exposed and upgraded by complementary ingredients, like lactones, aromatic humid woods, salty skins and musky furs.</p><p>Unlike its oil version, the alcohol based formula doesn't showcase the prominent dark leather accord or a overwhelming sweetness and i like it better this way, it's even more balanced and it doesn't cause any conflict among the other notes and accords.</p><p>Miyako by Auphorie will definitely go under the "Bury me with it" category of fragrances, yet I must manifest my discontent with the brand's direction ever since their well deserved success, back in 2016. In my humble opinion it has gone to their heads. Well...</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-49861409237577704632024-01-05T16:40:00.001+01:002024-01-05T16:40:11.999+01:00Romanza and that's it<p> As i was going through my sample stash today, looking to try something new, i instinctively went for Romanza. An old pal. We have known each other for 7 years, more or less, and it must be my most used perfume in "sample" form. I've been through at least 10 samples and every time i finish one i think to myself, "hm, i should get a bottle!". Then i get lost in priorities and forget. I need a bottle of it. Romanza is a feather in Canali's cap. It glows with the shine of yesterday's fragrances - it owns that je ne sais quoi the classics had. It's one of the most interesting modern florals I've smelled. I could have said beautiful, magnificent, sublime, because it is that too, but it has me at arousing curiosity and thought-provoking. I feel like Lady Chatterley's lover, sneak-peeking her nudity, trying to mentally retain each detail that forms the whole. From the moment she betrays innocence with corruption and lust. </p><p>Romanza's development follows analogously the same path, departing from a narrow patch, that shies away from the noise, and landing on a meadow sinfully drowned in its own grass and flowers, buzzing with life. It feels alive.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtV1LC3FKYHOGAW-6a_-dtK3oqp5UcG0JC9Y2X8eFB5evzUYqwEjD3dWKmcx4BMYqXuc0q3jLqmapm_NtELurwyKkQ1XZANc3H0kWO9bkvnoKFg0p-e5LgKJNUSJKkaKBaeI8ipWRFfrl_M5XVEU1wpJeNWIiid5muMclBOmDN_jG0wdJeLmWbYeUJ2A/s1280/narcissus-4967729_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="898" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtV1LC3FKYHOGAW-6a_-dtK3oqp5UcG0JC9Y2X8eFB5evzUYqwEjD3dWKmcx4BMYqXuc0q3jLqmapm_NtELurwyKkQ1XZANc3H0kWO9bkvnoKFg0p-e5LgKJNUSJKkaKBaeI8ipWRFfrl_M5XVEU1wpJeNWIiid5muMclBOmDN_jG0wdJeLmWbYeUJ2A/s320/narcissus-4967729_1280.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Narcissus leaves an unforgettable imprint of haze and dry and green grass entangled in indols. Thin threads of beeswax hang their extraordinary subtleties from the viridescent-smelling flowers and feed their anther with sweetness while connected to their roots. Warm earthliness. And bees' behinds bathing in the sun. Decadence.</p><p>Slipping into a field of narcissus to disrobe the resins my body carried all along. That's how wearing Romanza feels like.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-82690526752904865122023-08-14T11:54:00.003+02:002023-08-14T11:54:47.275+02:00Womanity<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pv5g4atCe3WYU4oFrP4QZTj_2L8T0IqTkUrkDdlZTQLCux12unM7ZezTaGJIWaMHoFnIsHRMh7UUVeRNGuj3PZhO-9qiitFjtI2O0EAKWKnJGnXPl9T4fuQ0GgmabUMJJkJuRLYUmSTAK12BDSx_kdcgUsoH4DS6hpptDnVTOSVekvjkDNqUcKuylrk/s3070/IMG_20230630_191428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2303" data-original-width="3070" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pv5g4atCe3WYU4oFrP4QZTj_2L8T0IqTkUrkDdlZTQLCux12unM7ZezTaGJIWaMHoFnIsHRMh7UUVeRNGuj3PZhO-9qiitFjtI2O0EAKWKnJGnXPl9T4fuQ0GgmabUMJJkJuRLYUmSTAK12BDSx_kdcgUsoH4DS6hpptDnVTOSVekvjkDNqUcKuylrk/s320/IMG_20230630_191428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Womanity startled the world of perfumery when it was released. Mugler has always been a visionary in the fashion field and translated his creativity also into the fragrances created under his name, successfully impacting though their uniqueness.</p><p>Womanity was something that felt so different and removed from what was in vogue at the time. Still, until the day, people love it or hate it.</p><p>Short story, Womanity is caviar served on fig leaves.</p><p>The long one is that I'm fascinated by all of this array of accords created to make its story come to life, from the solar freshness of ocean's breeze tangled into salty hair to metallic sourness stuck in the memory of a juicy fig dipping on the corner of kissed by the sun lips. </p><p></p><p>Never too dense, never too simple, it always whispers to stretch your imagination as far as you can and just run with it.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-39097577043987029912023-08-14T11:48:00.002+02:002023-08-14T11:48:21.766+02:00L'Objet Parfumant<p> Œillères L'Objet Parfumant is an anomaly in the panoply of insults the modern perfume market throws at us every single day. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIObJdCRlmhD2ozCV-2Arss0B0Va85O_T07p2Gfb1raYSQhu3cTI3iaTuBq7eUjTJmSwy_jKkIW1q08FOMU1z-JFHKL_7kRBS74KJAtw3351X9EEZX46_VZEXQaVDKzeYApiMttKCugfMiqJNN4An7rn62n3I3j3ffq3NzCTC_mHvO-q7MI9rA_yB3xk/s4624/IMG20230605192412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIObJdCRlmhD2ozCV-2Arss0B0Va85O_T07p2Gfb1raYSQhu3cTI3iaTuBq7eUjTJmSwy_jKkIW1q08FOMU1z-JFHKL_7kRBS74KJAtw3351X9EEZX46_VZEXQaVDKzeYApiMttKCugfMiqJNN4An7rn62n3I3j3ffq3NzCTC_mHvO-q7MI9rA_yB3xk/s320/IMG20230605192412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Nothing seem haphazardly tossed in Œillères and yet it feels like an experiment. Nothing metamorphoses into something else, as it doesn't transition much, all the action scenes happen simultaneously throughout its lifespan and although it's fairly linear, it's larger than life. Once it gets its carnival tricks out, there's no turn around, Dorothy, you are trapped watching the whole freak show! And freak was never more fascinating! My nose, hand in hand, with the imagination were stirred by everything and at the same time. </p><p>I must admit i felt threatened more than once while wearing it and i slipped under its control, feeling i was cheating my perfume taste with its rudeness. Too feral, maybe. Our closeness didn't come easy nor natural. We had to tame each other. Œillères is not a fragrance for leisure or business or dinner with friends. It's for those primitive moments, when one fully shows themselves, undressed of secrets and socially-forced masks.</p><p>If of anything, Œillères reminds me of the smell of an old kitchen, in the outdoors, where aromatic herbs were drained of life down-facing on hemp ropes, where flowers of chamomile died on old paper sheets and a broom, ghosting the corner, was the dust' secret hideout. Of rotten matter and greasy skin sweating to vapor heat.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-29483115712275059822023-06-13T22:24:00.003+02:002023-06-13T22:24:46.857+02:00Evil's out<p> I'm not familiar with the smell of Rouen Cathedral's interior, but i remember that, in 2018 while at Esxence, Cécile Vialla, one of the Maison de Parfum Berry' owners, mentioned that Anatole Lebreton created it based on "enfleurage" of samples recollected of the cathedral's stones. Cathédrale de Rouen translated into fragrance is Grimoire's younger self - cleaner, less brawny, more transparent and ethereal.</p><p>Warm and baroque, the fragrance isn't as "large" as its architectural other self, it is rather intimate and it suggests a spiritual connection between humanity and whatever its source of energy is. It doesn't ring the bells on a Sunday morning, it calls for calmness of spirit instead. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_IZa5tFcipPLspEetmrypvv_Yz9_D9YBgr_U9cHBAWvfnadMULgtMloEoY7aH_yPe1o_tDdW5u8Qp61Ru-B18zdBt66c6vS2_g9G3aYkixRdRLs3oDLSEVQG4qDk96XA5olBxl-ssRYSlBSeerBeeVSwrt-ohUxlB0gjj68nWFZr13TlcQ91pIX8/s4624/IMG20230605194504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_IZa5tFcipPLspEetmrypvv_Yz9_D9YBgr_U9cHBAWvfnadMULgtMloEoY7aH_yPe1o_tDdW5u8Qp61Ru-B18zdBt66c6vS2_g9G3aYkixRdRLs3oDLSEVQG4qDk96XA5olBxl-ssRYSlBSeerBeeVSwrt-ohUxlB0gjj68nWFZr13TlcQ91pIX8/s320/IMG20230605194504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Cathédrale de Rouen's serene effect is hypnotic and transports unwittingly to unworldly spheres, exorcising one's demons. Its core is crossed by resins that emanate their citrus and terpenic nuances into dusty stones bathed for centuries in fog and moss and incense. Its composition battles in the middle of being austere, antiseptic and bitter or warm, always behaving like an affable and agreeable companion. </p><p>Silences carved in old stone walls. Evil trapped in holy water on the bottom of a silver stoup. </p><p>Because sometimes it is important to have an extramundane moment, without cultural or social pressure, to remember a simpler life, when the best time was free of worries.</p><p><br /></p><p>Esp. No estoy familiarizada con el olor del interior de la Catedral de Rouen, pero recuerdo que, en 2018, mientras estaba en Esxence, Cécile Vialla, una de las propietarias de Maison de Parfum Berry, mencionó que Anatole Lebreton lo creó a partir de "enfleurage" de muestras recolectadas de las piedras de la catedral. Cathédrale de Rouen traducida a fragancia es el yo más joven de Grimoire: más limpio, menos musculoso, más transparente y etéreo.</p><p> Cálida y barroca, la fragancia no es tan "grande" como su otro yo arquitectónico, es más bien íntima y sugiere una conexión espiritual entre la humanidad y cualquiera que sea su fuente de energía. No suena las campanas un domingo por la mañana, sino que llama a la calma del espíritu.</p><p> El efecto sereno de Cathédrale de Rouen es hipnótico y transporta sin saberlo a esferas sobrenaturales, exorcizando los propios demonios. Su corazón está atravesado por resinas que emanan sus matices cítricos y terpénicos en piedras polvorientas bañadas durante siglos en niebla y musgo e incienso. Su composición batalla entre ser austera, antiséptica y amarga o cálida, comportándose siempre como un compañero afable y agradable.</p><p> Silencios tallados en viejos muros de piedra. Mal atrapado en agua bendita en el fondo de una pila de plata.</p><p> Porque a veces es importante tener un momento extramundano, sin presiones culturales ni sociales, para recordar una vida más sencilla, cuando la mejor época era libre de preocupaciones.</p><p><br /></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-77333177853185570952023-06-03T10:31:00.003+02:002023-06-03T10:31:39.465+02:00Le Parfum de Thérèse <p> Edmond et Thérèse. Una historia grabada en de los acordes de un perfume que une ambos nombres y los ancla en la línea de perfumería de autor de Frédéric Malle. Le Parfum de Thérèse es mayúsculo. Su grandeza, sinónimo de la complejidad de la composición, es reflejo del genio de Roudnitska. </p><p>Su impecable manejo de los aldehídos, las flores y las especias se debe al interés que éste siempre ha mostrado para las flores y las plantas, estudiando de cerca en su magnífico jardin. La facilidad del perfumista para fundir elementos fluidos (aldehídos, plantas, cítricos, florales) con otros pesados (especias, maderas), sin alterar el balance de la fórmula, demuestran la maestría adquirida con el paso del tiempo, dejándonos como testigos a Femme de Rochas -la fragancia de las segundas intenciones-, Diorama Dior -su primer estudio en iris, violetas, jazmín y maderas-, Diorissimo Dior -consolidando la consabida condición virginal del lirio del valle-, Diorella Dior -representando la corrosión del acorde floral por frutas maduras (haciendo uso del mismo acorde de melón que ha creado especialmente para el perfume personal de su mujer, Thérèse) y astringencia vegetal y su inminente entierro entre maderas sudadas-.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTurVyUwSn8AfvjgCwSCnC91GB4477rmNfuKIQhZI8h_xgh2fLBiMQXnwYXuxx9qo8oluGFYYOJbbfzdxgl1yWY396siVUNG1YEI5LXc-CZ11BoYog2WhiOn6hAq9Cv-hijkrlo21PB1A89lUBDHrfv97T41JGqTlekH5qwj3n4iruMTfpwWrNyuYo/s4624/IMG20230603102529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTurVyUwSn8AfvjgCwSCnC91GB4477rmNfuKIQhZI8h_xgh2fLBiMQXnwYXuxx9qo8oluGFYYOJbbfzdxgl1yWY396siVUNG1YEI5LXc-CZ11BoYog2WhiOn6hAq9Cv-hijkrlo21PB1A89lUBDHrfv97T41JGqTlekH5qwj3n4iruMTfpwWrNyuYo/s320/IMG20230603102529.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>(Le Parfum de Thérèse), antes de pertenecernos, era suyo y solamente suyo, de Thérèse. Un secreto a voces.</p><p>Roudnitska ha insuflado vida a los aldehídos fusionándolos con la dulce jugosidad del melón y del acorde de ciruela, -creando una sensación de frescura ligera, natural, acuática y afrutada-, con flores en plena madurez, envueltas en indoles y con verde crudo y aromático. Le Parfum de Thérèse se vuelve árida pasado tiempo y se enraíza en tierra, devolviéndole la humedad que le ha robado al nacer.</p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-5502789308998351752023-04-09T20:39:00.013+02:002023-04-17T20:03:53.846+02:00Iridescent, Esxence 2023<p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> Hectic, full-speed, flamboyant. The perfect words to describe my experience at this edition of Esxence. It felt like a </span><span style="background-color: white;">speed dating. So</span> much good energy to take in in such a short amount of time took longer than expected to assimilate. My plan for this year's edition was to not deny any invitation to a booth, to a conference, to lunch, dinner or a party, or time spent with a friend, for as short as it was. And I fulfilled it. The four days i spent in Milano could be seen as a "play forward" movie, always on the rush, from waking up early in the morning, with the luggage struggling to keep up the pace of my feet, going to work and from there straight to the airport, arriving at Milano airport, taking the train to Milano and the subway to the hotel, checking in, picking up an Uber to make it to a special and intimate dinner with dear friends, spending the evening seeing through each other's eyes and rejoicing at heart by our time together, getting back to the hotel and starting each day without knowing where the journey will take me. Long hours of walking, too many brands to stop by, some interesting conferences, familiarizing with the history of Italian perfumery by the hands of L' Osmothèque, serendipitous meetings at the underground cafeteria, dinners, parties, birthdays at midnight, laughter and tears of joy. It was mostly about people, perfume fell into second place, although it was always present, either in our conversations or in our noses.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> IrideScent, this year's theme, was imagined by the Esxence's team as "bright, solar, rainbow, Ambroxan, softness, clean, surprise, dazzling and clean".</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRlxNshfyd8XSwpvS0HlZFGlUEbP2xVIUYKB558P2aAbNQnitRiZKKtjcL1vAdQC21Hv6YPCgP8EAB4GyYe_PNWDImo8IdKePmceWnjyNEtIe4K6oYe4Rn05GPUCt0FIdcQk7_EioRUBh4ZPFwe_XEwxKw08OTAmpGVCizLFkJcCvYAxgUyDaf7Ya/s1080/Screenshot_2023-04-09-10-53-22-23_1c337646f29875672b5a61192b9010f9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="851" data-original-width="1080" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRlxNshfyd8XSwpvS0HlZFGlUEbP2xVIUYKB558P2aAbNQnitRiZKKtjcL1vAdQC21Hv6YPCgP8EAB4GyYe_PNWDImo8IdKePmceWnjyNEtIe4K6oYe4Rn05GPUCt0FIdcQk7_EioRUBh4ZPFwe_XEwxKw08OTAmpGVCizLFkJcCvYAxgUyDaf7Ya/s320/Screenshot_2023-04-09-10-53-22-23_1c337646f29875672b5a61192b9010f9.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> And indeed, Esxence greeted us with its old Ambermax and guaiac wood aroma, but, this time around, it was slowly losing power as soon as you got past the Main brands aisle. I was pleasantly surprised to see many more small brands pushing their way into the giant that is Esxence, with a visible concept of sustainability and creativity and a clearer fight for acceptance and diversity.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> From the established brands, several introduced new fragrances that caught my eye and offered an interesting olfactive experience on the spot:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> - Created by Cristiano Canali for Rubini - a young and talented perfumer (the kind of man who draws your eyes whether you're interested in him or not), that also created the rest of the fragrances for the brand, - Odenaturae is the fragrance that put a spell on me since first contact. </span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8NKUbkXUwFuRIIf-xDxQJ7DXL0uA651GYQ92uqAd3X_5YPK1kryCQ1SgXYnYVNZNvg4egVdNyMEDoKizOgqtWkQZJQoDFje5AFPTAw-8I5VFDyo6WfpMWqwwpqBXoMlh9xN1PqqR7ms_HgyudM-HwIe1s-DJA4VX4bXfbAI6AdVz9UdUThLODG9h/s920/IMG_20230409_180746.jpg"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="920" data-original-width="693" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8NKUbkXUwFuRIIf-xDxQJ7DXL0uA651GYQ92uqAd3X_5YPK1kryCQ1SgXYnYVNZNvg4egVdNyMEDoKizOgqtWkQZJQoDFje5AFPTAw-8I5VFDyo6WfpMWqwwpqBXoMlh9xN1PqqR7ms_HgyudM-HwIe1s-DJA4VX4bXfbAI6AdVz9UdUThLODG9h/s320/IMG_20230409_180746.jpg" width="241" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> The way that the bitter-aromatic greenness of the chamomile is combined with the creamy woodiness, we also find in Fundamental and Tambour Sacré, and the sourness of red fruits is captivating and extremely enjoyable. For the mention, Fundamental was remade into a new formula, which is not a bad thing given that, in Andrea's words, the fragrance that introduced the brand to the world in 2015 had to evolve and to change and adapt to the pass of time, as he has since then. I love the original Fundamental, despite many people's opinion of it being incomplete. The newer one is indeed more balanced, airier and with a metallic nuance the older was missing.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Le Jardin Retrouvée, a brand for which i have lots of respect and admiration and also memories, being one of the first indie brands i wrote about at the beginning of this blog, introduced this year Osmanthe Liu Yuan - a solar fragrance, exactly the kind of fragrance that Esxence was looking for through its theme (less the killer deal of Ambroxan, which luckily doesn't come included in the composition). </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6pp7mKI0TxIkyEV3omNJNEm3WSCA9qHqzf1niBD3D1UetDQL7xFBqtokvBgASEu8_HcqYubiaizB-1pdCDAnXuOAGJhHgGg9r9Oudt5EFnQ0tOzVW0--xEpbk6_JYoLtny-TmP5blZA7VfXLpVjAFCfUgN5hg4I0sSZgoFT-7y13xXaVMe4aiOXq/s3810/IMG_20230404_104859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3810" data-original-width="2857" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6pp7mKI0TxIkyEV3omNJNEm3WSCA9qHqzf1niBD3D1UetDQL7xFBqtokvBgASEu8_HcqYubiaizB-1pdCDAnXuOAGJhHgGg9r9Oudt5EFnQ0tOzVW0--xEpbk6_JYoLtny-TmP5blZA7VfXLpVjAFCfUgN5hg4I0sSZgoFT-7y13xXaVMe4aiOXq/s320/IMG_20230404_104859.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> Osmanthe is joyful and playful and serene. The perfumer, Maxence Moutte, recreated the fragrant osmanthus by using different accords, among them fruity, floral and rooty-smoky. The garden-fresh side and is all about fruits - sweet citruses, mandarine-like, lactonic aldehydes that give away an apricot scent - and florals that reflect their greener, dusty and fresher facets. A darker accord is used to contra-balance the almost shampoo-ish freshness with a soft woody smokiness. The result is an uplifting "sunny blue sky with a cloud here and there" type of fragrance. Also, proud friend moment: <a href="https://instagram.com/icarus.mid.air?igshid=OGRjNzg3M2Y=">Cristian Marianciuc</a> was the artist in charge of decorating the Le Jardin Retrouvée's booth and he did a marvelous job! Just look at the incredible details!</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNwNWwBTftHvqrW92pOTlh3NFJSr4JzcK6jPMc3WpgF_hp61BNas9CHkajolFbd9neGUoqwCx3N9QVa-HC7oEf0u8ABFKu8r8LInndcCQVxB0EAIWYdaDNVwfSCmb6rF8ddNKIDigowvHHg-vcFVn9W-ShpSIiHU_fyyeLNsK08Sxw55mX6RfWiXa/s4624/IMG20230401120515.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNwNWwBTftHvqrW92pOTlh3NFJSr4JzcK6jPMc3WpgF_hp61BNas9CHkajolFbd9neGUoqwCx3N9QVa-HC7oEf0u8ABFKu8r8LInndcCQVxB0EAIWYdaDNVwfSCmb6rF8ddNKIDigowvHHg-vcFVn9W-ShpSIiHU_fyyeLNsK08Sxw55mX6RfWiXa/s320/IMG20230401120515.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">*</span></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Although oud seems to not be in trend anymore, Masque Milano resuscitated it for its new Ruby collection, using it as base for four of their bestsellers, Tango, Russian Tea, Mandala and Love Kills. I must admit I was a bit skeptical about this collection and, after testing the four, I ended up being caught in Mandala Oud and Russian Tea Oud spells.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhARQ53vz8DfFbww6l2nJedaDSTE8t4OI9Tzr5u7CHWY37eSP10zFKM0FWqQWNBo5odAmXaEuECUnZ01GgHFrCVWEAASSyng1moDU0FTELGcepSBQMtsrTFc1ev1kKLMMIa9hKkCciiHGEiPMjwj8O7Sxhc_lPwCSFqIyXxXtNGQLb_qufgVy4bjT/s4624/IMG20230401164022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhARQ53vz8DfFbww6l2nJedaDSTE8t4OI9Tzr5u7CHWY37eSP10zFKM0FWqQWNBo5odAmXaEuECUnZ01GgHFrCVWEAASSyng1moDU0FTELGcepSBQMtsrTFc1ev1kKLMMIa9hKkCciiHGEiPMjwj8O7Sxhc_lPwCSFqIyXxXtNGQLb_qufgVy4bjT/s320/IMG20230401164022.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> The first, by Christian Carbonnel, is spicier, creamier and somehow airier, while the second, created by Julien Rasquinet, is fruitier, dry and bitter with an ashy feeling, similar in qualities to Tuscan Leather but rounder and well balanced. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> The green one was too much for me handle.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Under the same umbrella as Masque Milano, Malbrum launched Volume III containing three new fragrances: Godspeed, Here comes the Son and Paraiso Super, all created by Cristiano Canali. I'm starting to have a crush on this man's way of perfume making. Godspeed creates a beautiful ecclesiastical aura around, the kind of peaceful and meditative ambience that invites to an one to themselves spiritual connection. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0MhcGLQLNCkcodhrd_JvRRoB_7u9azKcu-5gfWx_0s14pgh1J6S2tHpupeOLz4lWb-bZy3G1tr4Sjg3pNqG8xhsby35mWrvuE1Xu9pneWfD7DNGWseK9Ta1kxBB4GWYhXiOfe-T8cuxHKekHkk-s9IhDbVetTrUvjPCZPGXFSpwwBTJMaEPRDJQYc/s4624/IMG20230401164340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0MhcGLQLNCkcodhrd_JvRRoB_7u9azKcu-5gfWx_0s14pgh1J6S2tHpupeOLz4lWb-bZy3G1tr4Sjg3pNqG8xhsby35mWrvuE1Xu9pneWfD7DNGWseK9Ta1kxBB4GWYhXiOfe-T8cuxHKekHkk-s9IhDbVetTrUvjPCZPGXFSpwwBTJMaEPRDJQYc/s320/IMG20230401164340.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Here comes the Son is an ode to the sandalwood, in my humble opinion. Canali took the creamy / buttery / sweaty qualities of the wood and enriched it with aromatics, florals and resins and built it as the perfect picture for a Santalum rising in the middle of a meadow. Paraiso Super didn't draw my attention at first, it was after testing all the samples I received when I discovered its interesting composition, marked by a clean acetone-like fruity accord with airy-lactonic and almond nuances. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Francesca Bianchi created, for her second brand Hedonik, Obsessive Devotion, a frangipani focused fragrance that plays around her famous leather/iris accord. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Dusita Parfums presented Rosarine, a fruity and playful rose, that despite its youthful aura is a nod to the past. Between its tart / jammy-like fruitiness and the sweet burnt-sugar combination, it results too sweet for my taste, but I can't help loving the dry bitterness that lies underneath, surrounded by roots, earth and a soft vetiver-like smokiness.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Nishane celebrated its ten years anniversary with an unforgettable dinner, followed by a party, where they launched five of their bestsellers, Ani, Fan Your Flames, Hundred Silent Ways, Hacivat and Wūlóng Chá, in a new X collection. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsbesR_yMNiJ_sZPU8cdRLN4TRJOfdI4AyT4HAcGRymo4e7e0t5EbWBP258P6yaE7ZRkp50w4YSBfDOQDC7exjLAVb1fJ9gE9LaQHxuI-lOy_SQqLhba7nuQrXDl_f3p7k3wZ_-o0KguOi-T7MZCrLqFJuCnifger0SXzp5z3JUxnE7NozqUkdV5l/s1564/IMG_20230409_200534.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1379" data-original-width="1564" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsbesR_yMNiJ_sZPU8cdRLN4TRJOfdI4AyT4HAcGRymo4e7e0t5EbWBP258P6yaE7ZRkp50w4YSBfDOQDC7exjLAVb1fJ9gE9LaQHxuI-lOy_SQqLhba7nuQrXDl_f3p7k3wZ_-o0KguOi-T7MZCrLqFJuCnifger0SXzp5z3JUxnE7NozqUkdV5l/s320/IMG_20230409_200534.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> Although I wasn't into Hacivat before, the newer formulation, created by <span style="background-color: #fefefe;">Julien Rasquinet, </span>is improved, equilibrated and more elegant, in comparison to the older one, when I used to be thrown away by the pungent woods. My favorite on the spot was Wūlóng Chá X, also a <span style="background-color: #fefefe;">Julien Rasquinet composition,</span> due to its realistic citrus accord, with its sour, terpenic and bitter qualities. It has tea and aromatic nuances that form a soft green halo around the citruses. After taking the time on testing all of them, Fan Your Flames X took the second place - on skin it's less sugar coated than its older self although it presents sweet / nutty / caramel carrot-cake-like nuances, it's fresher on both, the resinous and the aromatic sides, which helps to adjust the whole composition to normal levels (at least for me) of sweetness.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> My new discoveries, brand-wise, aren't so many - counted on the fingers of my two hands - have managed yet to add new fragrances to my selective encyclopedia.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Olfactive Pharmacy. Tilia made my eyes leak… this fragrance, as a whole, is my hometown's atmosphere in June, when the linden trees explode into blooming, filling the air with their honeyed tea-like floral brightness. It touched me to the core. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRm3h3XtrwAbokKYHJTUt2zqq2ynelZlTfRE4OmHqDKPjkKlSF9GdjTXIyhkwmBmpdMsUHverw7awLLL53DV9KMU3BKXE74uKfFzY2ZWB5Vmvo-O-KmjLJqziGNDpOpjHm4UmnZEAMOWlwM9FWmsVqa2YCmbZZD0rlA3wrwvOn1QWlfdESTPyzo1Q/s4624/IMG20230331111322.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRm3h3XtrwAbokKYHJTUt2zqq2ynelZlTfRE4OmHqDKPjkKlSF9GdjTXIyhkwmBmpdMsUHverw7awLLL53DV9KMU3BKXE74uKfFzY2ZWB5Vmvo-O-KmjLJqziGNDpOpjHm4UmnZEAMOWlwM9FWmsVqa2YCmbZZD0rlA3wrwvOn1QWlfdESTPyzo1Q/s320/IMG20230331111322.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> A simple composition in apparence due to its soliflore character, all of its ingredients are extremely well blended and put together in order to recreate the perfect scent of a linden flower. My second favorite from the brand and worthy of mention, was Betula - a green leather I haven't smelled before. Mark Buxton created both of these fragrances and did a marvelous job.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Toskovat, a Romanian brand with an artistic sense of perfumery and a unusual list of notes for their fragrances. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYAxEF8Wdj9ebqwoBqJbJHvksuBvUoYY3hht4oBc4pNqpz8kV134QUWpbFLKCs4JlDodXNlQSoIkAepfM7Vi2KD3VwWawQglueOQ1hFfRXnWS86j-uAopthkp0sv-XXNYA2_cRVXUdoF1hfg7UlW7a_hmoAPwTLxceeXYfC72XZfWGfVQ38o8s5JU/s4624/IMG20230401112135.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYAxEF8Wdj9ebqwoBqJbJHvksuBvUoYY3hht4oBc4pNqpz8kV134QUWpbFLKCs4JlDodXNlQSoIkAepfM7Vi2KD3VwWawQglueOQ1hFfRXnWS86j-uAopthkp0sv-XXNYA2_cRVXUdoF1hfg7UlW7a_hmoAPwTLxceeXYfC72XZfWGfVQ38o8s5JU/s320/IMG20230401112135.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Their offerings are artistic, with a strange feeling of "accidental" untidiness, giving away a clear purpose of impact. I had the chance to try their upcoming fragrances and I've noticed an evident evolution in David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi as a perfumer.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Carlotha Ray. Seen through my eyes, this was the perfect perfume brand - it offers fair compositions in a really nice packaging, it's sustainable and it supports diversity. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkzyRxgiZMew2G5NPto7aXcSCLrNkIqobRDQs96xLzWp6Rjm17Kx-6pjPHXZrn9szk7X57B9t0oZh3a6TZlQEl5Plkxyz8_oY0ZJK-4dk2aJBwszaJkqC7o1GFnqSB1SpZpEbGvSmFzTSjD9pfykAMXIU_jgF405Zl4eBOmBYr9pR3a1Hv6SbIIXQ/s1920/IMG_20230331_120418_492.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkzyRxgiZMew2G5NPto7aXcSCLrNkIqobRDQs96xLzWp6Rjm17Kx-6pjPHXZrn9szk7X57B9t0oZh3a6TZlQEl5Plkxyz8_oY0ZJK-4dk2aJBwszaJkqC7o1GFnqSB1SpZpEbGvSmFzTSjD9pfykAMXIU_jgF405Zl4eBOmBYr9pR3a1Hv6SbIIXQ/w180-h320/IMG_20230331_120418_492.webp" width="180" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Their light-weight bottles are refillable and they are using exclusively locally-sourced, natural materials, the slides are composed by a percentage between 60% to 80% of natural rubber coming from a plant-based latex extraction, the box is made from Italian FSC certified paper composed of 40% recycled material, 55% pure environmentally friendly fiber and 5% hemp fiber and is 100% recyclable and their bottles are packed in a fabric in Grasse by people with certain disabilities. I really like their concept and their care for nature and diversity. Besides, I had a fan-like moment at their booth, when I was introduced to the creator of three of their fragrances, Jean-Michel Duriez. Known as perfumer for Jean Patou for 40 years, 8 for Rochas, creator of Sira des Indes and PanAme for Jean Patou, among others, of some of Les Cascades for Rochas, of Yohji Homme and Yohji Essential, Duriez signs Poire&Santal Blanc, Rose Blanche&Gardénia and Mandarine& Maté Vert for Carlotha Ray. I enjoy the contrasts between green and earth in Mandarine&Maté Vert.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Nissaba, a Switzerland based brand that focuses on a key ingredient from a specific region of the world that produces it and creates a fragrance paying tribute to that particular ingredient. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP68a8mGdDMZZVuqulO1xUlAp8Wj9qATSKp8rwIfDVxdOkxbH3W6TvFuob7iqZPmIpENz_1epLrgMNIanncYOMJkfVCTrm8DkJINDODjlCI0CVg4mRcsN4nBrJbHej32wjsMLTKU85bTzKNzG7Ts7nw4rSle1Juc3uOR74-o5uCvL4Gj968vd0I_F_/s4624/IMG20230330132042.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP68a8mGdDMZZVuqulO1xUlAp8Wj9qATSKp8rwIfDVxdOkxbH3W6TvFuob7iqZPmIpENz_1epLrgMNIanncYOMJkfVCTrm8DkJINDODjlCI0CVg4mRcsN4nBrJbHej32wjsMLTKU85bTzKNzG7Ts7nw4rSle1Juc3uOR74-o5uCvL4Gj968vd0I_F_/s320/IMG20230330132042.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6lsStMr5PSDQHxWFfqsIMR2zTFykyz1pVf5imHEWrM4L2G6WqsQlzg_84w_j2X82GRzZSetgxyY2SD2vVIFNw1u24braJc-WiaYhbXTBjMr8Mfe5CQAQwi8LKGAMBJP1sCGGrRZYQi-7TaLqXrIzcmFcmwH0Ja1ryFngDa_2JQoQdwNv7FbfUZ4-/s4624/IMG20230330131205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6lsStMr5PSDQHxWFfqsIMR2zTFykyz1pVf5imHEWrM4L2G6WqsQlzg_84w_j2X82GRzZSetgxyY2SD2vVIFNw1u24braJc-WiaYhbXTBjMr8Mfe5CQAQwi8LKGAMBJP1sCGGrRZYQi-7TaLqXrIzcmFcmwH0Ja1ryFngDa_2JQoQdwNv7FbfUZ4-/s320/IMG20230330131205.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Their packaging is sustainable and a certain percentage of their sales goes to the region that sources the ingredient they're using, which is admirable. My favorite is Provence, a Sebastien Cresp's creation, an aromatic fragrance composed around different types of lavender from the region were it got its name from. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Boujee Bougies. An UK brand, founded by Pia Long and Nick Gilbert, which need no introduction to the perfume aficionados. Started as a candle brand, it also launched a perfume line inspired by their candles, Eau de Boujee. Well bodied and giving a feeling of intimacy, </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Gilded had me, the whole me.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> Oh!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Antinomie Parfum. You know that saying, do not judge a book by its cover? Well, although I try my best to never judge, I did it with this brand. Ah, another luxury faux-brand! I thought to myself after seeing the packaging. Well, shame on me... </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB29MoPeJHyuHo83AaMJxRaEx-kNU4Vje2GI5E5RU0UgP4NaLAG9JG-t4siVokfEoT-GMCymppDjLJy7ti4apS7F1MR6az9_3hP5Gxbkr2TISXPJ3dFizJk3DRirR_4Pg0ZmdVv6sTiuz4HqcUYciBFDV5OOpB0ihPrrVQVohpC7gc9ifwz07SYxPG/s4624/IMG20230401141420.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB29MoPeJHyuHo83AaMJxRaEx-kNU4Vje2GI5E5RU0UgP4NaLAG9JG-t4siVokfEoT-GMCymppDjLJy7ti4apS7F1MR6az9_3hP5Gxbkr2TISXPJ3dFizJk3DRirR_4Pg0ZmdVv6sTiuz4HqcUYciBFDV5OOpB0ihPrrVQVohpC7gc9ifwz07SYxPG/s320/IMG20230401141420.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">They have two lines - an Eau de Parfum and an Extrait. The Extrait line was a bit too much for my taste, but the Eau de Perfume are very nice - Neroli Poète and Musc Infidèle being the ones I liked the most. Neroli Poète is a beautiful fragrance for everyday use, not crossing any weird limits. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">They call it "affordable luxury" and I just love it.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- J-Scent. Their fragrance collection is quite extensive and although it's impossible to build an opinion on the spot, after testing so many fragrances in a short amount of time, I really liked their style. Sumo Wrestler and Hisui caught my attention.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSA4wtOYRmBeQ1XuHOFicrSq-8T6Jz3Gsryi6yCtXvGg6YnkOoNXoh2H8F1RruD_NpBNsorlM6_Tv34FWumQOLh2wLqKjmkJ_2g5HD1RZXUjcaSgYtbzW1wVKg4VdNgK3UZ3oK2PKw-4xg2iueCUgY2a1PMrWlKv4Lq8b0nGH5RrYHPpHvX78ajc0c/s4624/IMG20230330130856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSA4wtOYRmBeQ1XuHOFicrSq-8T6Jz3Gsryi6yCtXvGg6YnkOoNXoh2H8F1RruD_NpBNsorlM6_Tv34FWumQOLh2wLqKjmkJ_2g5HD1RZXUjcaSgYtbzW1wVKg4VdNgK3UZ3oK2PKw-4xg2iueCUgY2a1PMrWlKv4Lq8b0nGH5RrYHPpHvX78ajc0c/s320/IMG20230330130856.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /> *</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Burdin. A french perfume style with an Argentinian heart. Emmène-moi by Nathalie Feisthauer was definitely a yes for me due to its old-school style. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Rosae Virtus. An Italian brand founded by a botanist specialized in roses. For rose lovers, the ideal match. They have four fragrances, all launched this year, each dedicated to a rose and a season. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpCkqBkfDfXOxVLtx1Nd138gzOs4iGq3G0a5h9Xu057_1KNkf1uvIJlHtEsGa2EQpYfimVLtIf-icKCtECVMRTnBv_Eb9MFOtO3vLno3Ah43fVvYaApk18EdizimF_7BTiUV66mLfw-zr3EmS4g-87bTfRVGc-Out5t48-_H544jeVPlU77_Y5CLk/s4624/IMG20230331113523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpCkqBkfDfXOxVLtx1Nd138gzOs4iGq3G0a5h9Xu057_1KNkf1uvIJlHtEsGa2EQpYfimVLtIf-icKCtECVMRTnBv_Eb9MFOtO3vLno3Ah43fVvYaApk18EdizimF_7BTiUV66mLfw-zr3EmS4g-87bTfRVGc-Out5t48-_H544jeVPlU77_Y5CLk/s320/IMG20230331113523.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><span> *</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Argentum. I like their fragrances, although I had no idea until the end if the fair was water-based. As a concept, it makes sense given that their main activity is cosmetics. I guess they want to continue with the same respect for skin with the range of fragrances they offer. They had a really cool way for each person to choose their fragrance - by picking up a tarot card blindly. Mine was the Magician. What can i say, spices and resins love my skin.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDVNa1QI_3WPKxrBCL6YIzSLQgoXRYilQoJEO9fL_bChLRggGaxVeNKX0IAueFUw18q2s_E8MQzkwnx5uqXN-w1hDZGv4Q5rkQ-ghVo7RYnFx4f6DdAAZkXEPsN4RPOOwOHED57oGRiy0zOXYQWeVA27YXSDjrsrXn5WL9jER2hl0qdYieRPlHHKV/s4624/IMG20230330104626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDVNa1QI_3WPKxrBCL6YIzSLQgoXRYilQoJEO9fL_bChLRggGaxVeNKX0IAueFUw18q2s_E8MQzkwnx5uqXN-w1hDZGv4Q5rkQ-ghVo7RYnFx4f6DdAAZkXEPsN4RPOOwOHED57oGRiy0zOXYQWeVA27YXSDjrsrXn5WL9jER2hl0qdYieRPlHHKV/s320/IMG20230330104626.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><span><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> From already existing small brands that didn't add new fragrances to their lines, but were present at Esxence, I can't allow myself to forget about: </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Tobba - Rose on the Shore and Force are still standing tall in my eyes, nonetheless the rest of their creations are starting to grow on me. Jasper Li's talent as a perfumer is undeniable.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEexGBOHftgqNm-OZaYtEvwtnDkeGiWcPwiME9K_GjLfpOwGRHZZHXcIZzMx-BgrX9c7zVPIBEpuTUzVycIJXQgkGh0izEUAixEsxN131VrxK81kqd-s70X3dC3Tn3EgmuBlINYg-QbF_1622cpskACRODsq9o17t6NiJp7keKSdEBh7zDUgoeMCAg/s1440/IMG_20230330_191220_505.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEexGBOHftgqNm-OZaYtEvwtnDkeGiWcPwiME9K_GjLfpOwGRHZZHXcIZzMx-BgrX9c7zVPIBEpuTUzVycIJXQgkGh0izEUAixEsxN131VrxK81kqd-s70X3dC3Tn3EgmuBlINYg-QbF_1622cpskACRODsq9o17t6NiJp7keKSdEBh7zDUgoeMCAg/s320/IMG_20230330_191220_505.webp" width="240" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /> *</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Soul Couture. Wonderful, original and outstanding fragrances, that for whatsoever reason pass overlooked. I don't agree with all the PR stuff that pushes the fragrances through beautiful and deceitful storytelling, but I do agree with Soul Couture's, "a bespoke collection that pushes the boundaries of style…". Michele Marin created six unique fragrances that stand out to many niche offerings. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> Things i tried, intentionally or accidentally, outside the fair, that haven't been launched yet: - (Leaf in French) by Miskeo Parfums, - Dance Lascive and a precious attar by Angelos Créations Olfactives, - the hair perfume from Frassaï - for now will be only two fragrances, Rosa Sacra and El Descanso, - Mad Tea Party by Le Frag, - "a few" interesting Zoologist, - and last, but not least, Sultan Pasha's new attar and fragrances in spray.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> While at Esxence i made time for some of the interesting conferences they hosted, of which i would like to highlight two:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- Perfumers Speaking out on Education, Diversity and Creativity, led by Karen Marin with guest-perfumers, Alexandre Helwani, Hiram Green, Véronique Nyberg and Alex Lee. A conversation around their personal experience following the theme, although I wish they would have applied it to their work environment and deepen the subject on diversity in the perfume industry.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixp3j9-aer8_B44DC0Ies9mLPkWQkUnQzsIdE3-pxWHXl21JSVv_f3giAOASl14vNf03GmRzFn06EXY26N-KtkRbcY1h06-mfmXkHh5FIhYRkEDp5R2AAI5l0WK4xSdKwd4iR_EVRgFmrBQIoSnG5wqpsgELJZmcYQ1vTTJimlZ6fpGTg8oCFGl0oO/s4624/IMG20230330140944.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixp3j9-aer8_B44DC0Ies9mLPkWQkUnQzsIdE3-pxWHXl21JSVv_f3giAOASl14vNf03GmRzFn06EXY26N-KtkRbcY1h06-mfmXkHh5FIhYRkEDp5R2AAI5l0WK4xSdKwd4iR_EVRgFmrBQIoSnG5wqpsgELJZmcYQ1vTTJimlZ6fpGTg8oCFGl0oO/s320/IMG20230330140944.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">*</span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">- 2023 ESSENCIONAL OBSERVATORY The Evolution of Artistic Perfumery: web analysis, survey results and insights. Which offered a perspective on the growth the artistic perfume market has registered after the pandemic.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZx39AvQJ4J3KPF6JdLtktSpqNBgbHN_sqPjTdYLs_DhIXukogSM59Y7c-RBiQJ8sNWhHF-v81qkxlzpH0HDtpzBm5ecjD-4ZjxzM_AqHJ58_M04ssX65Itzsiu8UUJXP5FNDpuUM6u4xQldoLpViOy4F8kDj0FTC8NaynavcfVXKA9rGmKBufweCx/s909/IMG_20230403_073441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="909" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZx39AvQJ4J3KPF6JdLtktSpqNBgbHN_sqPjTdYLs_DhIXukogSM59Y7c-RBiQJ8sNWhHF-v81qkxlzpH0HDtpzBm5ecjD-4ZjxzM_AqHJ58_M04ssX65Itzsiu8UUJXP5FNDpuUM6u4xQldoLpViOy4F8kDj0FTC8NaynavcfVXKA9rGmKBufweCx/s320/IMG_20230403_073441.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wzh3ihZBW5e4DQMtyBnyfIfRixlo69W7_V023CcwUwoonEsCb45wSOGqNEHv0P2yf3cdRslHtIDqhWfiMt3oxKZpCmgEobFcQlKqMkwuTZzG-BmZWulafr0BHXZVVtNYoFcNbdCuVl_O2R48OEEV978K43LLL3UiQDOYBsZP_TP3w0WM77DToGjm/s946/IMG_20230403_073235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="946" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wzh3ihZBW5e4DQMtyBnyfIfRixlo69W7_V023CcwUwoonEsCb45wSOGqNEHv0P2yf3cdRslHtIDqhWfiMt3oxKZpCmgEobFcQlKqMkwuTZzG-BmZWulafr0BHXZVVtNYoFcNbdCuVl_O2R48OEEV978K43LLL3UiQDOYBsZP_TP3w0WM77DToGjm/s320/IMG_20230403_073235.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6lk_BzuOWKookwZJWvDNEMCeEfg5sfx8tNB7gs18ClnB7s7f0l0eHog0Ydz08d-jhfzHpoqF20zprBGmrVeY9nOkpb3lJzoV0sXm0aLFkzxn8eDx8vP1gzcOGD2AgzTVOw6RKuSTdtsjWx9I89O0IQoZIlPXIw8Tfj2peXg0rFHrf4Nik1aYNrcau/s978/IMG_20230403_073209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="978" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6lk_BzuOWKookwZJWvDNEMCeEfg5sfx8tNB7gs18ClnB7s7f0l0eHog0Ydz08d-jhfzHpoqF20zprBGmrVeY9nOkpb3lJzoV0sXm0aLFkzxn8eDx8vP1gzcOGD2AgzTVOw6RKuSTdtsjWx9I89O0IQoZIlPXIw8Tfj2peXg0rFHrf4Nik1aYNrcau/s320/IMG_20230403_073209.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBGx4H9Vm2CDO8OK8aUFfC5Vr_OpAjJlKjO4K5UUBCF7_gIn0CL8c8R7BmFdEp8pT-500riT_Eq3oQrmrQ4nQ6i6AZKIXMY8WBalPCsqws9U4dZrjPuscQzjHwFq6qy9a5EmZNKjNserR-75EEnrBlQMRXQ_bjlgroxb9HGbauiiwDy7zwJuO1Y9w/s886/IMG_20230403_073106.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="886" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBGx4H9Vm2CDO8OK8aUFfC5Vr_OpAjJlKjO4K5UUBCF7_gIn0CL8c8R7BmFdEp8pT-500riT_Eq3oQrmrQ4nQ6i6AZKIXMY8WBalPCsqws9U4dZrjPuscQzjHwFq6qy9a5EmZNKjNserR-75EEnrBlQMRXQ_bjlgroxb9HGbauiiwDy7zwJuO1Y9w/s320/IMG_20230403_073106.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyexd4S0u_7zO84BSSyYxR2BaosKlMNtlMZbi1GGuRvyyZOAoWEEaNlN0uQMgYzXz4Pac7Hr3XjUxfWcne0LgMZVZWf-wR_N0roI0_AoupOKYKRTPvPgZ4C68VURLcUFgaNgoYxEaZstQ4NpMczP7E_oMiuwy5erAoNAvJFeqDwO8Fayp59OC_kpTa/s928/IMG_20230403_073033.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="527" data-original-width="928" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyexd4S0u_7zO84BSSyYxR2BaosKlMNtlMZbi1GGuRvyyZOAoWEEaNlN0uQMgYzXz4Pac7Hr3XjUxfWcne0LgMZVZWf-wR_N0roI0_AoupOKYKRTPvPgZ4C68VURLcUFgaNgoYxEaZstQ4NpMczP7E_oMiuwy5erAoNAvJFeqDwO8Fayp59OC_kpTa/s320/IMG_20230403_073033.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqkQncIkNNuzrnBOyFTpDNkrBToQvr2_ZuKzs8csLbEVI0OGsIPd4N4FSrld5ATRyBpqbfCdkV6g4Acw88ONslird1KxMXynSwAxF_UtJCfYrw_fMWVbZ0edhxdWYvQIM3qclpOQiDs73-und3hYLXD-E-6kgNuZwSeYPYrQ7JrSAAZJGzsqS4xRwo/s907/IMG_20230403_072211.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="907" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqkQncIkNNuzrnBOyFTpDNkrBToQvr2_ZuKzs8csLbEVI0OGsIPd4N4FSrld5ATRyBpqbfCdkV6g4Acw88ONslird1KxMXynSwAxF_UtJCfYrw_fMWVbZ0edhxdWYvQIM3qclpOQiDs73-und3hYLXD-E-6kgNuZwSeYPYrQ7JrSAAZJGzsqS4xRwo/s320/IMG_20230403_072211.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzugN7j79DCqv4i4rFH99jWFGUBtgaMY8onjMpW_yHcLWPssxQ9QUUYp8Rg7JRTZYM3pjAO1hbcW0o5pRh1FxR8iUHerNlYAFwrgcZIRod6Wa_-gE6qF2b_GGH6vshkH3V8C2McLF5NDl_6YWMEIZjKN14Op18ryFiCWXFTTtBZk4PFj6b5GdkjDw/s720/IMG_20230403_072845.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="720" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzugN7j79DCqv4i4rFH99jWFGUBtgaMY8onjMpW_yHcLWPssxQ9QUUYp8Rg7JRTZYM3pjAO1hbcW0o5pRh1FxR8iUHerNlYAFwrgcZIRod6Wa_-gE6qF2b_GGH6vshkH3V8C2McLF5NDl_6YWMEIZjKN14Op18ryFiCWXFTTtBZk4PFj6b5GdkjDw/s320/IMG_20230403_072845.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeXdcN3GLQo0A17Mrd4qXpAGiuVC2Z9jCv0jcYSGEwc5lW1GUBOvJMVH7rqVsf1bVrtsVUTHYU3LWw9BYvYHXRJTI1fc1-ztC5RyqrJI2GB0IBNdRXhhiL6cNN-1_suQNS-tl1xY7pXXQ_vT-h2DrbDTTTIZEh79pbojy2EVRZ-602CX6wg-o2ns3/s918/IMG_20230403_071929.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="918" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeXdcN3GLQo0A17Mrd4qXpAGiuVC2Z9jCv0jcYSGEwc5lW1GUBOvJMVH7rqVsf1bVrtsVUTHYU3LWw9BYvYHXRJTI1fc1-ztC5RyqrJI2GB0IBNdRXhhiL6cNN-1_suQNS-tl1xY7pXXQ_vT-h2DrbDTTTIZEh79pbojy2EVRZ-602CX6wg-o2ns3/s320/IMG_20230403_071929.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LjDJy2E_gNI6R-VQcrcd8gXPp7tcKC5jH561gqI3_WRkSmVefU1Fg7FX6kS4VPXvsbEpGcqUEPKe5qHlr4jiB0ojpvenFt_nNHmGHNrfhta5PqblZZd1NznkmLYJTphLorj7hPuDZhhdu3fwQ4GjGm0j5dyQ61HKC8XOUEws2fXF0jFdaNAN97Ti/s939/IMG_20230403_072018.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="939" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LjDJy2E_gNI6R-VQcrcd8gXPp7tcKC5jH561gqI3_WRkSmVefU1Fg7FX6kS4VPXvsbEpGcqUEPKe5qHlr4jiB0ojpvenFt_nNHmGHNrfhta5PqblZZd1NznkmLYJTphLorj7hPuDZhhdu3fwQ4GjGm0j5dyQ61HKC8XOUEws2fXF0jFdaNAN97Ti/s320/IMG_20230403_072018.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> I arrived at the end of this long-length report with the feeling I've missed many other beautiful things that are worth mentioning, but the most important is that I was there and I did my best. Until next time, Milano, arrivederci!</span></p><p><br /></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-23802598769064242582023-03-01T21:33:00.002+01:002023-03-01T21:34:17.144+01:00A Gardener, two flowers<p> When something is good, it's good without any justifications, without additives. Medusa and Iris Doux are that good. And what is strange is that both come from a man whom is still experimenting with materials and compositions. He's on the right path. I like the way Eliam plays with the flowers' radiance, with their defying character, and animalic materials, using the latter as a complement rather than a contrast.</p><p>Enter Medusa. An assault of blooming jasmine. No traces of green or delicacy, it goes straight into not overly funky mothballs and powdery roots with a menthol breath after a ration of blue-cheese. The civet adds a marvelous radiance to florals spreading a musky warmth around them, despite its cheesiness. There's phenolic and spicy traces of eugenol that mingle with the honeyed-sweet and balsamic nuances the benzoin has. Once the jasmine's rush is slowed down and the indols get rid of the funkiness, the fragrance turns into a hay-mossy leafy-herbal-old wood and dried fruits concoction with echoes of jasmine.</p><p>Medusa isn't abandon, it's sensuousness with a threat of intellectualism. Neither is the overwhelming, intoxicating floral scent that commands attention, it's well defined and nothing short of captivating, yet easily recognizable. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQYPoLb_2-mcos7SMuxNdG_UojeCaS9kYxzFPybIhJHKWAmU3tr0sycd-uEImXdzTanIu-iCnbtjZIbIbW1WYG5OsIbUzcVRgAbdfLu3h9fL2Slw0Xi3Y2qrY82Udk70z0FdBG8mH7afeT9IzFp5b5OZc0PAme7VyH6X-i7laK9wG6LjZ2r34G4KI/s4624/IMG20230222181650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQYPoLb_2-mcos7SMuxNdG_UojeCaS9kYxzFPybIhJHKWAmU3tr0sycd-uEImXdzTanIu-iCnbtjZIbIbW1WYG5OsIbUzcVRgAbdfLu3h9fL2Slw0Xi3Y2qrY82Udk70z0FdBG8mH7afeT9IzFp5b5OZc0PAme7VyH6X-i7laK9wG6LjZ2r34G4KI/s320/IMG20230222181650.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>I've smelled many iris interpretations so far, from cold iron to fleshy, carroty, dusty, nutty, rooty, makeup-like. Iris Doux is an iris disguised as a mimosa cheerleading its pom-poms in the air with forged overjoy. The iris sits in yellow shadows, with its chalky big white smile and its ghostly traces outlined in the smooth green, greasy, waxy and floral effect that mimosa produces in fragrances. It's a "sad" flower when in the wrong company, creating a melancholic atmosphere. In the best alignment, it gives a luminous touch to the composition, especially when, like here, is matched with heliotropin's radiance. Threads of rubber and chestnuts cooked on charcoal emerge from earth and knit into the orris-mimosa duo, while grounded by the rooty vetiver. Darkness and light collide and smash into each other. </p><p>There is something endlessly romantic in Iris Doux that takes me to Percy Bysshe Shelly' Alastor; or, The Spirit of Solitude verses: </p><p>"When night makes a weird sound of its own stillness,</p><p>Like an inspired and desperate alchemist</p><p>Staking his very life on some dark hope,</p><p>Have I mixed awful talk and asking looks</p><p>With my most innocent love, until strange tears,</p><p>Uniting with those breathless kisses, made</p><p>Such magic as compels the charmed night</p><p>To render up thy charge;..."</p><p>Crossed by a silent nostalgia, Iris Doux is one of those perfumes worth hanging on to, its iris battles between abstract and verging to perfection, with enough room to allow its fragrant harmony to expand.</p><p>It simply clicked with my soul.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-60152567598593967182022-11-26T11:20:00.002+01:002022-11-26T11:20:46.423+01:00Continuity <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5nvwyDDjIR1dZlpfG77GRacMwuss0StecRKyYgncp5OMreYA4x-JhjR-Q-I5Nf8o36mnm31tbv6FPM_T3_XmKdBAym0kdCFeH31ND8LIVmENr_b8kFlwhJNRsU0ZDjomhOEYlYPEVrvWWisK7pjOK8yuVCjMhL5oVasmOJsLkpYZkVOefYHF-G3NH/s4624/IMG20220522181732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5nvwyDDjIR1dZlpfG77GRacMwuss0StecRKyYgncp5OMreYA4x-JhjR-Q-I5Nf8o36mnm31tbv6FPM_T3_XmKdBAym0kdCFeH31ND8LIVmENr_b8kFlwhJNRsU0ZDjomhOEYlYPEVrvWWisK7pjOK8yuVCjMhL5oVasmOJsLkpYZkVOefYHF-G3NH/s320/IMG20220522181732.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /> Almost everyone in the community talks about discontinuity, but how about continuity? Samsara has been around for over several decades and even though it was received with a certain reticence at its launch time, due to its oddity, it's a statement for presence through absence - it appears and it fills the room before its wearer does. Samsara was a grand departure from what Guerlain had launched until the date and it made a spectacular exit for the 80s bombastic-bold-rich fragrances. </span><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Far from being pretty, romantic or spiritual (made for a "woman who conveys harmony and spirituality"), Samsara doesn't shy away from intimidating with its seductive character. Based on the jasmine-sandalwood duo as a central piece, the fragrance hasn't lost its opulence over the years, perfumers at Guerlain did their best to preserve Jean-Paul's idea of radiance and sensuality. While the old Samsara contained a considerable amount of Mysore Sandalwood (combined with synthetic sandalwood) and its main characteristic was the creamy woods that surrounded the lush floral bouquet with their sweet and warm muskiness, the newer version offers the same dramatic presence, although differently reflected, as it shows a certain restraint on the floral side while its formula adds more weight on the vanilla and almond accords and on the sharper sandalwood synthetic aroma materials base.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"> Despite the evident changes, Samsara's formula is still well-balanced, strong and opulent.</span></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-52596332275192300152022-11-20T19:03:00.006+01:002022-11-21T07:39:14.751+01:00Mirabai<p><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggREJVc-AoqqNtBbiL9my2zzXAZXbLTejyx40r0wzHsvVvYx8KzIsOvC0DufdOXCpGmo7PiWEBZFdTJ6ZvBMNRCUJVqzuvbDUThRM_XzP2WJUhamFrxtP_gx3SBijz3jDiDon9NpfvQ35HVXyBYE8k8b8IvxnbqAqRGPpPWXho2Lwi-vjarNzsOXg2/s4624/IMG20220926175623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggREJVc-AoqqNtBbiL9my2zzXAZXbLTejyx40r0wzHsvVvYx8KzIsOvC0DufdOXCpGmo7PiWEBZFdTJ6ZvBMNRCUJVqzuvbDUThRM_XzP2WJUhamFrxtP_gx3SBijz3jDiDon9NpfvQ35HVXyBYE8k8b8IvxnbqAqRGPpPWXho2Lwi-vjarNzsOXg2/s320/IMG20220926175623.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">If I had to choose only a phrase to describe Mirabai, I'd say it's a wild flower born out of decay - one that absorbs nutrients from the air and from organic debris left by bees and dead matter and it blooms into a one-in-a lifetime flower.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mirabai's top comes as a surprise - shocking, opulent and ravishing - it doesn't knock, it directly invites itself in. It's almost intrusive. It's not the calm one would await after reading about its inspiration, it's more like an unexpected two minute dark summer storm that transforms and transitions into something completely different. As a metaphor for pain and loss grown into love.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first glimpse into Mirabai is of moldy sweetness dominating the woods, spices, florals and everything at its step with its decomposition. Once stripped of that particular dampness, an extremely beautiful honey accord arises from the darkness. It shares Gaea's radiance, but in Mirabai, the accord shines through richer attributes and it lacks the former' sharpness. I remember the specific aroma the all flowers honey has during the colder seasons when, due to the evolving temperatures, its golden nectar naturally crystallizes creating a sugar-like mélange that smells and tastes like an explosion of singular elements offering a spectacle of nuances: acacia's warm-honey tonality, mimosa's dustiness, rose's sweetness supplemented with geranium' lemony-aromatic greenness, jasmine's indols, honeysuckle's gentillesse, grape's grapefruit-spice-neroli aroma, beeswax' tobacco facets, a bee's back - urinous and musky and polen-like -, lily-of-the-valley' greenness, clove's spiciness, a red fruitiness, vegetal-skin and waxy-fattiness. It's thrilling to discover all of these subtleties that are individually encapsulated in a unique accord. Once the honey accord blends into the spices, dominated by cinnamon, and into the muskiness of woods, their journey culminates within the majestic blooming of sandalwood. Or what a dear friend and connaisseur would describe as "wet lovemaking", lactones engraved with exquisite human-like odor and green guava/lime sourness into woods. I could lose myself forever into that loop that connects the heart to the drydown, as its main theme - the love story between the honey accord and the sandalwood - oozes out every pore of my skin thanks to the connections that my brain established a long time ago with my heart by archiving any endearing memory related to the bees.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There's no trace of crippling in this fragrance, despite its consuming intro. Mirabai is essential to prove Peter's personal grasp for spirituality and love and it fully reflects his courage to express himself from inside and out and become vulnerable throughout the whole process of creation and later, during the olfactive experience that Mirabai has to offer.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><br />Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-56539321931399580052022-11-18T12:04:00.003+01:002022-11-20T19:06:43.722+01:00Good perfumery<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-Fg0g8wwvhAhj8u_IDevWKiT96YgfJ2wEOcKZJbk1YqxTORvZBPEhGGC9t7XNxNJMvTmW9K_WG7WmEf6EQEzrTc3pAylJPED--p7FDyEcS7rAwEE3ffrGXXxmq2tyrzpwCUJ6NHKJIfOYpAnXIu2p09H_q2AWKpepRFuxGM23ibC0R2U5jLrVC1p/s3968/IMG_20211113_112249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2976" data-original-width="3968" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-Fg0g8wwvhAhj8u_IDevWKiT96YgfJ2wEOcKZJbk1YqxTORvZBPEhGGC9t7XNxNJMvTmW9K_WG7WmEf6EQEzrTc3pAylJPED--p7FDyEcS7rAwEE3ffrGXXxmq2tyrzpwCUJ6NHKJIfOYpAnXIu2p09H_q2AWKpepRFuxGM23ibC0R2U5jLrVC1p/s320/IMG_20211113_112249.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /> Good perfumery is intended, is sensible and irrational at the same time, is researched and sustainable, cared about and honest, is meant as art. From outside the process of creation, as a consumer, a good perfume must be felt, despite of being impalpable. Felt like a painting one can't take their eyes off, like a glass of wine that with a sip shakes off the taste buds with an orgasmic pleasure, like the freedom of putting the hand outside of a running car's window while the winds slips through the fingers. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Eglija understood the concept and fully applied it to Exaltatum, not offering only quality and diversity, but also emotions. Each of her fragrances, except one which i didn't fully understood, serve my conception of good perfume making. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">By Serpentine and Riverwalk came out at the same time and although both are inspired by the outdoors, each fulfills a different purpose and shapes different nuances of green. Although, speaking of green, nothing beats up Pergola... That one is my favorite poison.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">By Serpentine starts with a consuming burst of hot spices cooled off by a lightly squeezed lemon peel and rounded with a sweet rasp of almond. Not long after that initial impression of intensity the calm settles in, as the pepper merges into a powdery-make-up like accord with a dry-woody side. The collision and later, infusion, of different accords, gives birth to a halo of vegetal muskiness and an extremely subtle tobacco dryness towards the end, when it warms a bit under the arm of patchouli. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">Riverwalk is one those fragrances that are a mood per se... Dark and almost unnatural. Its array of natural nuances sets the backdrops to an unconventional setting - i can imagine a nomad wedding in a quaint creek as the night falls and the lantern lights cut through the darkness. This fragrance is about unborn buds, leaves hidden in hibernated branches and bitter roots grown deep into the dry earth. It creates such an aura of mystery around that gets your head to spin around for the nose to get a whiff after another.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">As proven, good perfumery comes in different shapes and colors and we can only admire it temporarily due to its ethereality, in change we can feel its effect for as long as we live.</span></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-80488823109774702532022-10-06T23:28:00.004+02:002022-10-07T10:35:57.554+02:00Victoria by Frassaï<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZAtN38LSZ1hgdS4vmQoXM0r7igkRqdBku56eEE_GYPVYUhtkEnG4w42byCQ6ugQppdArrfZ3WcI6i7S6PzbRFXKe0jujtlQCQUsC16RrrKwNeEFrHM0-i2YcUaqX2zopQwBBgSBp9OibAKkFg56kJPbg_n6ZxtE5DKXHLl_b5wCVUqBfsC_DJyly/s4624/IMG20220710195431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZAtN38LSZ1hgdS4vmQoXM0r7igkRqdBku56eEE_GYPVYUhtkEnG4w42byCQ6ugQppdArrfZ3WcI6i7S6PzbRFXKe0jujtlQCQUsC16RrrKwNeEFrHM0-i2YcUaqX2zopQwBBgSBp9OibAKkFg56kJPbg_n6ZxtE5DKXHLl_b5wCVUqBfsC_DJyly/w400-h300/IMG20220710195431.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /> Oftentimes I close into my own bubble and stick to what's in my perfume wardrobe, mostly because of the disappointment I feel towards the actual perfume market, either because I find modern compositions to be quite repetitive (especially when it comes to glueing-sickling-sweet aka Ehtyl Maltol and modern ambery-woods = full impact on Ambroxan or Iso E Super) or i don't recognize fragrances I was familiar with from years ago and find their actual formula an insult to me, as a customer. It's today's trend to copy best-seller compositions or to release from perfumed water after perfumed water, with small alterations in between, - that on the faux-niche side of the perfume market also come in bling-bling bottles and boxes so big and exuberant that are absolutely impractical and unsustainable -, only for the sake of cashing-in. Although I must also admire some fragrances' continuation in good conditions, despite their formulas being changed and adapted over time. But those cases are rare.</span><div><span><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Nowadays, only a handful of perfumers or brand owners are critical towards their work or releases, not allowing themselves to lower to mediocre and instantly acceptable, in terms of quality and composition. They also invert their time and give all the needed attention to the creative process. It's what I like to call honest perfumery. And Frassaï is a part of it. Natalia's implication in the process of creation of each fragrance of the line reads in their quality and in the innovation brought to the market.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> I love the element of surprise when it comes to a fragrance - when it's good, obviously, - and Frassaï's Victoria turns on the lights and pops-up the champagne.</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Victoria feels like an undiscovered wild creature that, apparently, seems to be born out of chaos. And chaos settles into harmony once its disorder dissipates. Victoria is bold and heavy and unique; the kind of uniqueness that I'm sure won't please everyone. The pepper is there, pushing out the oils of the citrus peels, the sweetness released by fruits and spices pierces through the whole composition, the fruity-fatty lactones bath the tuberose and the other flowers that soften the woods, the styrax is there, with its leather and smoky facets, supporting the oud accord, with its non overly animalic, non overly barnyard(y) and non over-medicinal warmth, the burnt quality of the cade oil and the woods are all in there and you can feel them, one by one, until they disappear into the blend, unifying. And they appear and disappear again, creating some sort of haze around. Tuberose should be the center of attention, but it isn't. Many will be pleased by its absence through presence, as it can sometimes be overwhelming, all claws and teeth with its narcotic, heady and meaty greeness. Its role, here, is to arbitrate between the tropical-sweet, fruity, slightly vegetal, and fatty top and the weighted dark base, centering with its creamy/ lactonic/ mingling of sweet, slightly bitter molasses of creamy woods and warm spices. </span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Victoria is gourmand in an inedible way. While its sharp-lighter side suggests some sort of dessert I'm unfamiliar with, the obscure border is earthy, animalic, balsamic and woody. It's a firm and mysterious composition with new nuances and inflections that make you come back for more.</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Victoria's unaltered circle of chemical synthesis is one I love wearing around my skin. I'm glad it exists, to scare the bad and boring perfumes away. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Bottle gifted by the brand at Esxence, in Milano, after it made an impact on me. I've been wearing it a lot since then, to make sure my opinions are firm and objective. And they are. </i></span></p></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-20928067250617205882022-10-01T18:14:00.005+02:002022-10-07T10:35:44.264+02:00Brume by Miskeo Parfums<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVbwK6R4cnVgxLoNxUZt39Cfi26tyZLu9_soM7Tv-fRcEv8WxLZlP27Y2PdUtdmRSo_m1NQLG8IlFVObexWbCmhLKwlGX-Kt3rWT1oi7TgdQSZvoKihx7loO1ftlIRhQlEulVT9S6plVuBJ2MOiyBYuy7jTynrnsoMRtL7C4YYtaY8d3xWk8Ic688/s4608/DSC_0532.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4608" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVbwK6R4cnVgxLoNxUZt39Cfi26tyZLu9_soM7Tv-fRcEv8WxLZlP27Y2PdUtdmRSo_m1NQLG8IlFVObexWbCmhLKwlGX-Kt3rWT1oi7TgdQSZvoKihx7loO1ftlIRhQlEulVT9S6plVuBJ2MOiyBYuy7jTynrnsoMRtL7C4YYtaY8d3xWk8Ic688/w400-h266/DSC_0532.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Brume is new to my olfactory system, I haven't found any other fragrance in my archives to compare it to. It wasn't necessarily its uniqueness that made me like it from the first time we introduced ourselves. It's surprising and clear, and, despite suggesting an atmospheric occurrence, it's not an ambience fragrance, it's a skin lover and it retains its own microclimate. Brume feels equally humid, mineral, salty, green and foggy, as its name implies; neither nuances are eclipsing the others.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The fog per se is odorless, it's made of water droplets that absorb chemicals from the air around and it ends up smelling as the surroundings where it forms - forest, earth, ocean, dry leaves, animal matter, asphalt, smoke. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In Brume, the fog develops inside of a greenhouse next to the ocean, giving the feeling that freshly salted water droplets, squashed under the pressure and transformed into drizzle, which, unlike the clean and refreshing smell of rain, it adds more humidity and iodine to the atmosphere and it slowly releases all kinds of nuances of green, shape-shifting from painty to mossy and woody-herbal to terpenic and to aromatic/minty/citrusy (the green/lemony/slightly spicy and aromatic to minty nuances the geranium leaves and the basil share), that later are overtaken by hushed molecules stirred up by earthy-musty whiff of wetness the geosmin leaves behind, feeling almost ethereal.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">I believe the guilt for the ozonic-aldehydic scent belongs to Aldolone, which is weaker and less diffusive than Calone and it doesn't have the strong marine/oyster facets the latter has. It's like a bowl full of salty water, housing melon and cucumber seeds, wrapped in plastic and left to the cool mineral air to decrease its intensity.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Brume doesn't follow a trend, it doesn't echo any other fragrances I've smelled before, it's an uniform smell that captures all the senses and consumes attention, causing immediate comfort. It's felt, seen, smelled, heard and it's flavored. It wakes up a 5D sense of reality.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><br /></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-65255821633321793442022-08-04T12:59:00.002+02:002022-10-07T10:35:00.683+02:00Drifting <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p id="docs-internal-guid-6cef4e5a-7fff-62d0-de56-73dd3b000e77" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2up3vOKaEkrnOrQoA8htkIa_hy0zMQqF39EcM52tasHkzQkw3PMoIMl8C0uVlcuELDU29Q6F5S2y1NetFQUQXp3N3sJ4MHdw6QuRPjdgjhri0lSIr6j0FliCMP4hqMSjPgxu3cORa4pGYZR5sA_F4dIBCUicwqaonKLWXtptox2ResrsTYhMjwn5/s4624/IMG20220721215938.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2up3vOKaEkrnOrQoA8htkIa_hy0zMQqF39EcM52tasHkzQkw3PMoIMl8C0uVlcuELDU29Q6F5S2y1NetFQUQXp3N3sJ4MHdw6QuRPjdgjhri0lSIr6j0FliCMP4hqMSjPgxu3cORa4pGYZR5sA_F4dIBCUicwqaonKLWXtptox2ResrsTYhMjwn5/w400-h300/IMG20220721215938.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><p></p><p id="docs-internal-guid-6cef4e5a-7fff-62d0-de56-73dd3b000e77" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p id="docs-internal-guid-6cef4e5a-7fff-62d0-de56-73dd3b000e77" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> It's easy to launch a fragrance that speaks a language for everyone's understanding, but to create a fragrance with a certain level of complexity and a special print that everyone would find enjoyable, it's like speaking all the languages in the world for universal understanding. Francesca made it simple and gave the word another meaning. Simple in Francesca's tongue is complicated in the others'.</span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Libertine Neroli is in between not being recognizable as a Bianchi and a statement of the self-taught perfumer' identity. Ghosted by Francesca's signature, Libertine Neroli flashes out its retro neroli and oakmoss accords with the typical Italian nonchalance of dolce farniente. </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Dressed equally in the characteristics of the classic masculine fragrances and the modern salty-woody musks, Libertine Neroli's fresh structure, reinforced by the dryness of oakmoss, is wrapped in warm veils of musky woods. </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> The neroli - sparkling and soapy, floral and green - is complemented in a natural harmony by a see-through obscure ring (because it wouldn't be a Bianchi without it, right?) with hints of animalic - leathery and musky -, bitter greens, salt and woods, hitting at wet skin sun drying on stones partly covered in lichens. </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Don't look for the poetry, color prints or the shocking orris-leathers that distinguish Bianchi's compositions, just enjoy the details and richness captured and preserved in Libertine Neroli. The fragrance is very easy to wear, perfect as an everyday perfume, but it’s also nuanced enough to be special.</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br /></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-76432573304728852642022-07-12T08:19:00.004+02:002022-10-07T10:36:18.445+02:00Lily Mon 1er<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFdJQV38J35kvo9iveXtlyNa7nJJER1Yw4JcS873_ZsdHuUykN9M6FJRYj5K1iMVrpoFLxOGWeqAPW7VXMol8I0qkE8-RM6dD-ih5RuIfSCACD8R7ym7YPi26LQu2hKkr6PivVBwXEkyiHSDKNVZKthf_sCqOygJctzO-ETu1991bz2MI4kxviaBxE/s1066/IMG_20220712_075525.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="1066" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFdJQV38J35kvo9iveXtlyNa7nJJER1Yw4JcS873_ZsdHuUykN9M6FJRYj5K1iMVrpoFLxOGWeqAPW7VXMol8I0qkE8-RM6dD-ih5RuIfSCACD8R7ym7YPi26LQu2hKkr6PivVBwXEkyiHSDKNVZKthf_sCqOygJctzO-ETu1991bz2MI4kxviaBxE/w400-h265/IMG_20220712_075525.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Picture by Someus Christopher</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p><div style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Romantic is defined as amorous, passionate, visionary, utopian, fantasist or dreamer, as opposite to realistic or down to earth. I've always included myself in the latter category, although I'm a dreamer most of the time. </span></span></span></div><div style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> My first experience with Lily Mon 1er was the illusion of solitude on a beach, cuddling into my grandma's arms. A time of quietude and peace only disturbed by waves shattered on the shore and sunrays tickling our faces. Her fingers playing with my hair, feeding my being with the force of life. Those are the shoulders that I stand on.</span><span> </span></span></div><div style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">I reach up for a stone. A stone among a million others. It's still a stone, but it will preserve this precise moment for as long as I'll hold on to it. It's one of those memories I never had the chance to live, its unreality is now archived in my romantic-dedicated files. </span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Liliana's wistful and delicate creation, characterized by an effortless elegance, smells like a woman from another time, another era, a woman ahead of her time. The fragrance owns the sense and sensibility of a ballet dancer, as cumulative to their strength and ethereal presence. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Lily Mon 1er is a floral accord with a springtime delicacy and magic twists that oscilante between the dewy freshness of peonies and roses in crisp mornings and the richness of creamy woods and tonka beans sprinkled with musks and rice-powder-coated iris. Temperately sweet and aqueous, mild and green, powdery and fresh, Lily is a rather classical piece of work. All of its elements are perfectly calibrated among them, creating an olfactory aura of solitude. There are no systematic errors in Lily's composition, each component seems to balance organically through a warm and well-defined round structure with faint evolution. A sphere of intimacy. Of being by yourself, isolated from the rest of the world, reliving all the loves that crossed your heart. Lily Mon 1er is a creation of contrasting feelings - happiness and melancholy -, with a serene and evocative fragrance, rather than overly intellectual, but there is a dark timbre to it as well, despite of its purity. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">“Goodbyes are only for those who love with their eyes. Because for those who love with heart and soul there is no such thing as separation.” ― Rumi</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Review based on a bottle of Lily Mon 1er gifted by the brand at Esxence, in Milano. Opinions and emotions are my own. Lily can be found at <a href="https://www.lilianadeschamps.com/acheter" target="_blank">Liliana Deschamps</a>.</span></i></span></p><div class="yj6qo"></div><div class="adL"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;" /></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-79621647090551538892022-07-04T07:00:00.006+02:002022-08-05T22:33:54.340+02:00 Esxence a 100/h<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wW9XuCaV2XRplVByZo_y8niIUulS5ZD291GxEERP2CXnmRyz_mLrORWNjo5PWxNAWgZIPwL7QxLXf78PDOmfxhGSsvP7FGuqLktBt-kL1TWtlNbZAylrWV4EuISJ6yII0zPZixLL2bC5JYM_a9n4I_dmIzeuUNTCT8bs0t3kCwGcSrGhEI4HRU44/s4624/IMG20220617110517.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wW9XuCaV2XRplVByZo_y8niIUulS5ZD291GxEERP2CXnmRyz_mLrORWNjo5PWxNAWgZIPwL7QxLXf78PDOmfxhGSsvP7FGuqLktBt-kL1TWtlNbZAylrWV4EuISJ6yII0zPZixLL2bC5JYM_a9n4I_dmIzeuUNTCT8bs0t3kCwGcSrGhEI4HRU44/w400-h300/IMG20220617110517.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Sería bastante engañoso por mi parte llamar esta breve reseña de la feria reportaje. Mi estancia en Milán se resume a 48 horas intensas y la participación a Esxence a apenas un día y medio. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span> De las 281 marcas presentes en la exhibición (una minoría están dedicadas a la cosmética de autor), solo me ha dado tiempo a probar, escasamente, unas 20 de perfume. Maurizio Cavezzali, cofundador de Esxence y director general de Equipe Exibit, afirmaba “Cada año, como resultado de un minucioso proceso de investigación y selección, ofrecemos a nuestra audiencia solo los mejores ejemplos de producción de perfumería artística”. En mi opinión les ha faltad</span></span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">o filtro y deberían haber sido mucho más selectivos.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Los que suelen participar en este tipo de ferias saben que es realmente imposible dedicar el tiempo solo a fragancias, porque hay gente de por medio, gente con la cual fundirse en abrazos y risas, después de tres años de ausencia física, es casi obligatorio. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;" /></span><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Volviendo a perfumes, empiezo por antiguos conocidos y sus nuevos o futuros lanzamientos que han dejado huella sobre mi olfato. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <i> Montri de <a href="https://www.parfumsdusita.com/montri" target="_blank">Dusita</a></i>, es la versión "light y fresca" de Oudh Infini. El acorde de oud, compuesto en su mayoría de maderas, quita la pesadez que Oudh Infini puede llegar a transmitir a aquellas narices no acostumbradas al oud real y se centra más en las características vegetalo-animálicas del cuero. Las especias y la dulzura pegajosa de los frutos secos (la tengo que probar más veces y en paralelo, pero ese acorde fantasía de frutos secos me recuerda al de Arabie, de Serge Lutens) hacen que Montri sea más cálido. Las flores, con su dulzor amielado, ayudan hacer una bonita transición hacía la base amaderada.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <i> Encore du Temps de <a href="https://www.meofusciuni.com/collection" target="_blank">Meo Fusciuni</a></i>, junto a Victoria de Frassaï, una de las fragancias mas camaleónicas que he olido en la feria. Pasa de un floral cremoso y dulce a las facetas de cuero y té que posee el osmanthus casi inadvertidamente, pareciendo otra fragancia. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> La tuberosa de <i><a href="https://www.frassai.com/" target="_blank">Frassaï</a></i>, <i>Victoria</i>, es una fragancia inusual y única sobre la cual tengo que hablar en un post aparte (conocer a la encantadora Natalia fue un verdadero placer y debo añadir que la última incorporación a la línea es impresionante). </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <wbr></wbr> </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> La maravillosa <i><a href="https://raniaj.com/" target="_blank">Rania J.</a></i> presentará dos nuevas fragancias este otoño, una a base de oud (que es en mi opinión una mezcla o mejor dicho el conjunto de acordes usados en sus fragancias anteriores) y la otra, un pachulí distinto y singular. </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <i>Piazza Affari de <a href="https://www.milanofragranze.com/" target="_blank">Milano Fragranze</a></i>, una gratísima sorpresa, considerando especialmente la relación calidad-precio. Es un aromático sofisticado y elegante que abre con el picante brillante y alegre de la pimienta rosa, seguido por los acentos cítricos, afrutados y rosados del geranio. Un toque suave de especias corta la intensidad de la lavanda, permitiéndole ofrecer su frescor aromático y floral a la base amaderada.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Aunque no exhibieron, Francesca y Tanja estuvieron presentes en la feria, presentando sus últimos trabajos.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><i> Libertine Neroli de <a href="https://francescabianchiperfumes.com/es/" target="_blank">Francesca Bianchi</a></i>, la fragancia más llevadera de la línea, basada en el trío neroli-musgo de roble-gamuza, tiene los aires de los chipres clásicos y recuerda vagamente a Etruscan Water, sin caer en su verde salado de mar, y guarda la huella identificativa de Francesca, el iris acuerado (perdónenme, acabo de inventar la palabra) y mantecoso. Es la composición mejor equilibrada de la perfumista italiana y, en apariencia, la más sencilla. Es esa sencillez, à la Bianchi, traducida en multitud de matices que acompañan cada movimiento.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><i style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lost in Roses de</i> <i style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://aprilaromatics.com/" target="_blank">April Aromatics</a></i><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Si os gustan las rosas de Damasco, esta debe ser su reina. La mas aterciopelada de las rosas. Es amarga, cítrica, vegetal, aguda, aromática con matices mentolados, seca a astringente, endulzada naturalmente y con una pequeña dosis de polvo e i</span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">ndoles</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;" /></span><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Nuevas marcas que tuve tiempo de descubrir y realmente disfrutar: </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <i>Tobba Parfums</i> (establecida en Hong Kong), su Rose on the Shore fue una experiencia olfativa increíble al igual que Force, una mezcla curiosa que daba la impresión de estar en una vieja bodega.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> <i>Soul Couture</i>, la nueva adición de Masque Milano, creada por <i>Michele Marin</i>, un perfumista autodidacta con un talento increíble, al cual le doy las gracias por el tiempo y la pasión que puso en la presentación de la línea. Para conocedores, Michele es el creador de Quality of Flesh y Tadzio para Homoelegans.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;" /></span><p dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Y por último, pero no menos importante, mi viaje en Milán terminó en una de las experiencias perfumisticas y humanas más increíbles que he tenido, Liliana Campos <i>(<a href="https://www.lilianadeschamps.com/inicio" target="_blank">Liliana Deschamps</a></i>), a la cual agradezco la sensibilidad, la delicadeza, su alma transparente, los abrazos y las lágrimas. Y mil gracias por Lily Mon 1er, por traspasar parte de tu maravilloso ser en sus moléculas.</span></span></p><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div class="yj6qo" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-31566229982141920992022-05-25T07:46:00.003+02:002022-08-05T22:34:09.637+02:00Alienada<div class="separator"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator"><span style="font-family: times;"><span> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Al inhalar una fragancia por primera vez, experimentamos el mundo que inspiró al perfumista a crearla. Transponemos ese acontecimiento a nuestro propio viaje, desde el punto de vista de nuestra vasta ola de emociones, recuerdos y vivencias, al igual que un cineasta, al poner en movimiento las palabras de un guionista, aunque, por experiencia, esas dos visiones rara vez coincidirán.</span></span></div><div class="separator"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xRXLhMdoVpeTJekgzxGcfFMFKBSkrOIek4I9olY6WyiYXIFlb4Pj9BHgKIf6G48j_WT9yTP1srzG-VjShbRVojs7DE_ApL70QgYTCIa1YYdIYBcLIlxKMwCLGucw-PkNy-LfNsaMj5s/w400-h300/IMG_20210905_161436.jpg" width="400" /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Este no es el caso de Grandier, ya que estoy completamente de acuerdo con la descripción de Maison Anonyme: "Yuxtaponiendo un fougère limpio y aromático con un chipre animálico y teatral, el perfumista Christopher Gordon ha creado una tensión única que llamará la atención y dejará una marca indeleble en todos los que se encuentren".</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Grandier no es para los débiles de corazón, es por eso que la tensión que crea rara vez llamará la atención en señal de aprobación, porque es una criatura extraña que se conecta con lo invisible que andamos buscando, perdidos, y ahí es donde me tocó y me puso en locomoción. Hierbas aromáticas y amargas y cítricos (para mi nariz salvia, enebro, rastros de lavanda y bergamota) son el edredón verde de esta cama siniestra improvisada sobre un colchón de civeta, costus, maderas húmedas, alquitrán de abedul e incienso. Sus láminas están hechas de panales, llenos de oro, y su entramado, de heno dulce, y aire graso, fresco.</span></span><div><span style="color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Una fragancia inusual para personas inusuales.<br /></span><div><span style="color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;">*</span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Bosque es una de aquellas fragancias intelectuales que despiertan la imaginación y hacen oler fascinante. No es el (mero) tipo de fragancia que huele bien, Bosque crea su propio ambiente, donde fluye. Fluctúa entre los naturales ligeros y los químicos aromáticos sintéticos ásperos que, afortunadamente, se dispersan entre los otros ingredientes, se adhieren a ellos y permanecen ocultos. Bosque es un camping en un prado que termina en un bosque de plástico, es verde por un lado y tinta por el otro, como el follaje que se vuelve azul en un escenario artificial. Al principio, todo es imperfecto y fácil de identificar, poco después se convierte en uno, reflejando todas sus partes en la suma. Las cualidades metálico-aldehídicas-amargas del pomelo refuerzan el aspecto herbáceo-amaderado del vetiver, combinando sus lados claros y oscuros en un acorde con facetas mentoladas (casi alcanforadas) y resinosas. El azafrán libera sus tonalidades de cuero vanguardista, que se reflejan en matices medicinales, especiados, íntimos, amaderados, tintados, secos y herbáceos. Hay un aura floral que rodea el aroma con un resplandor absolutamente hermoso y un almizcle aldehídico, limpio a metálico, con su extensión nítida. Bosque pinta la naturaleza como un retrato de un mundo sagrado que los monjes zen reflejaron en su pintura de tinta sumi-e, destacando la simplicidad y la importancia del espacio vacío, central tanto para el arte como para la religión. El equilibrio entre la naturaleza y el espíritu, una quietud casi sobrenatural.</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Si los androides tuvieran un olor, sería este. Es inteligente, un poco desafiante, antinatural y lejanamente inaccesible.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"> *<br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #262626;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: times;"> Curiosa la forma en la cual la luz se refleja a través de una botella sin reconocer la oscuridad de su contenido. Sería un acto de brujería, una fascinación irresistible del agente natural para hacer las cosas visibles incluso en su negrura, si tan solo comprendiera la sustancia del objeto de su reflejo.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMPZFoN7tDIvDcGxSgzodA4uMAEFbIDavDJQJMzyNqNUi6kvU1IxMAWU3W3c4UoChVs-R5O6rKxY2AO5MSyZtR61N1WTnBh1l_3dh-TS8t6RVHFoVIa_qfxm3UqwT4gCULQFOkHwUITQ/s2978/IMG_20220418_200112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span><img alt="Old bottle of Coven by Andrea Maack" border="0" data-original-height="2978" data-original-width="2232" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMPZFoN7tDIvDcGxSgzodA4uMAEFbIDavDJQJMzyNqNUi6kvU1IxMAWU3W3c4UoChVs-R5O6rKxY2AO5MSyZtR61N1WTnBh1l_3dh-TS8t6RVHFoVIa_qfxm3UqwT4gCULQFOkHwUITQ/w300-h400/IMG_20220418_200112.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><i><br /></i></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">Coven es la entrada a la cueva negra, un día lluvioso, en el bosque. Manos borrachas, penetradas por el humo de la fogata, guían los pasos hacia el bache. La luz no se atreve a enviar su brillo más allá de la entrada y hacia la misteriosa oscuridad, donde la humedad y la descomposición han encontrado su hogar. Debajo de la superficie, la vida se percibe de manera diferente. Seco y sediento, el suelo absorbe cada hilo de agua, como prisionero de una prolongada deshidratación, alimentando su hambre con raíces y hojas muertas. Infértiles, las paredes crecen moho, el aire, humedad. En el bosque frío, cuando cesa la lluvia, el suelo evapora un calor especiado, impregnando las cortezas de los árboles.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdAB0VRURVX_d_Xh4TLiZjBeJx9TdSPQfS_hK2tE9s4OpKP3Q64KAFnyZ1h8QFFUck6OZT6fosToWQpIE-5uGzGiu6PMkN4oGmGyNERKo8FnKqbxKHhPZ9oEgAUyzxdSUmmcVuzl7ltAQ3Uxk1G7juOrg_tZ8l1oWMGkPQau1DAvIsVxuTm796Da9/s3848/IMG_20210905_161340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3848" data-original-width="2886" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdAB0VRURVX_d_Xh4TLiZjBeJx9TdSPQfS_hK2tE9s4OpKP3Q64KAFnyZ1h8QFFUck6OZT6fosToWQpIE-5uGzGiu6PMkN4oGmGyNERKo8FnKqbxKHhPZ9oEgAUyzxdSUmmcVuzl7ltAQ3Uxk1G7juOrg_tZ8l1oWMGkPQau1DAvIsVxuTm796Da9/w300-h400/IMG_20210905_161340.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262626;"><span style="background-color: white;"> Fundamental es vívido, es palpable. Abre un paisaje completo delante los ojos de su portador: un pequeño pueblo al pie de un río. Los años 40. Pequeñas barberías montadas en casas de piedra, cuyos habitantes viven entre las camas de arriba y el pequeño salón de abajo. Entre aparente comodidad y</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> pelos mojados, cabezas claras y pieles rapadas.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> En las estrechas calles cercanas, las damas cruzan la calzada ventilando sus rostros empolvados con abanicos de madera. Una brisa cálida se levanta en el aire. Al otro lado del puente de piedra, los viñedos están a punto de ser despojados de sus frutos dulces y mohosos. El olor agrio del sudor se levanta junto a la humedad que libera el suelo. El sol se despierta perezoso. Otro día de calor en medio de septiembre.</span></span></div></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-67751215970340895932022-05-09T07:35:00.001+02:002022-08-05T22:34:23.386+02:00Dark me<p><span style="font-family: times;"> <span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">It's funny... or rather not, how a fragrance inspired by the circus has the opposite effect on me. Dzing! is dramatic, it's not amusement nor laughter or joy. Black to the white. It's a small communist class room saturated by vapors of glue and puberty. I, on the other side of the poorly isolated window, cataleptic and absent like a vase without flowers, staring at the glass, into the infinity. The window separate the closed space from the sty on the other side. Molecules of manure slowly cooked in wet mud entered the cracks to find home into the thick walls were that exhaling it to the room as bubbles of candy cotton. It was a curious process and, after all of these years, it still fills my vase with water. The flowers will eventually appear... Because I'm starting to feel my muscles again.</span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHSkbLoExMCTEe8B8I5UGSBQkdAGrBG__4DjcJegQGofIjj2GfDp-jSUifPSEKTBa6-qFZFLeE7xSbvT75zkwVkTZPU7I7Uw40Z_fXhCCWziOQlMB-4ErNrxohRK8RaM9KJ832VGC06hazGk7noOKObyHQiSASsI_MpPZ-7WPq0BgUdfhqWb4rQYI/s1564/IMG_20220418_192421.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHSkbLoExMCTEe8B8I5UGSBQkdAGrBG__4DjcJegQGofIjj2GfDp-jSUifPSEKTBa6-qFZFLeE7xSbvT75zkwVkTZPU7I7Uw40Z_fXhCCWziOQlMB-4ErNrxohRK8RaM9KJ832VGC06hazGk7noOKObyHQiSASsI_MpPZ-7WPq0BgUdfhqWb4rQYI/w400-h400/IMG_20220418_192421.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> I remember the atmosphere. The sand dunes, provoking the waves into sea-foam and hot vapors, struggling to keep dry every single grain of their immensity. The sky tattooing the waters with the airiest shades of blue. The disintegration of the night's coldness by thawing of the daylight. Uninterrupted flow. Pitch-black and eye-blindly brightness. I am alone in the universe's dream. Alone, in its peaceful rage. As a shadow in a haunted world. At the horizon, raising into a stranger's eye as the Fata Morgana. Playing with the weaker's narrow mind tricks they're too blind to see. And yet, I'm there. Visible to my invisibility, warm to my coldness, loving to my hatred, alive despite of my non-existence, compassionate to my cruelty. With a heartbeat. And silence. And Dune.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Gold by Donna Karan can either pass as the white bridal bouquet, in an early Summer wedding on the countryside, or, as an elegant small crown at a funeral, being a point in the line between romantic and tragic. From my experience, it's the perfect impression of the lily, its composition catches all of the flower's nuances - its main characteristics being intoxicating and exuberant. Gold iquals green, vegetal, sweet, spicy and a sharp woodiness wrapped around the most beautiful white floral accord that comes as an opulent heart of jasmine, orange flowers and heliotrope slowly transitioning to smooth towards the earthy drydown.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTMJfat12ZU1wDCkZtBLH0YOMJV5h_GPNWkbZS4-UbY3YkN1JsFge3co1gqi4iv526bVBJdg1m1TpsM4d91JUF3GkvNGfzga6uLHh2C2yJW6gFvYFdQKkG8y1miPmjp8g3K6J13ubp9j-Egr-7S9X2pHAf7M1HxcNpP852z3eTNlyazDc2Ksth1Qk/s1564/IMG_20220418_192523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTMJfat12ZU1wDCkZtBLH0YOMJV5h_GPNWkbZS4-UbY3YkN1JsFge3co1gqi4iv526bVBJdg1m1TpsM4d91JUF3GkvNGfzga6uLHh2C2yJW6gFvYFdQKkG8y1miPmjp8g3K6J13ubp9j-Egr-7S9X2pHAf7M1HxcNpP852z3eTNlyazDc2Ksth1Qk/w400-h400/IMG_20220418_192523.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Meet Lou-Lou's estranged cousin, Eden. She lived the 80s in the 90s and she continues to do so in the 21st century. Permed hair, colorful clothes, shoulder pads, spandex and lycra, big accessories, MTV spreading the wilderness all over the world, vibrant makeup floating in a sea of powder, eclectic, electric, go big or go nothing. She's the antithesis of natural and subtle. It shouts instead of talking. Eden is imitation to the tropical jungle. Plastic foliage, flowers and fruits grown into a mass of wet floral foam, covered in dust. Eden can't be depicted in notes, it's an excessive fragrance that despite of its chaotic exuberance it is harmonious in its artificial nature. Bitter to sweet, green to wet, powder to earth. I love its magnetism, yet, after all the years, Eden still has me at the thin line between love and hate or opulent, unusual, mysterious and tacky.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Geraniol does such a good job to disguise as a rose with its sharp, tangy metallic, lemony and dewy and scratchy green /herbal smell. Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by État Libre d'Orange meets all of those characteristics and pluses with more, as the unconventional beauty that it is. Rose is the leitmotif of its structure, the vertebra that keeps together and connects all of the other elements that give it life and a sense of fluidity. A touch of fizz and spicy for an airy effect - citrusy/sour and slightly aromatic - a soft and quick tornado of aldehydes crossing without even being noticed, leaving being particles of metallic dust. And then, the transparent darkness install, taking over with a natural coldness, spreading its smoked, earthy cape and slowly alienating the glowing of the rose. Leaving it breathless with its incandescent love for death.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7AjmdTvHg7WIjRCncaoos_9Nkfbs-Vyg9ZokZ8D59QJlGkLy_QX_cRxwS6LJqA96wEa3bH5EXgz_wbxXMpYEwqOMLnO5mxjrvJzT8M6C7_SrEYRyoGXa2jmTEf0pKJVvm-0stW8u9Mc4bLPGLEip0TaknRJhWvrIhqadoEBBFQJB6Vm6j3Lu6XEx/s1564/IMG_20220418_192544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7AjmdTvHg7WIjRCncaoos_9Nkfbs-Vyg9ZokZ8D59QJlGkLy_QX_cRxwS6LJqA96wEa3bH5EXgz_wbxXMpYEwqOMLnO5mxjrvJzT8M6C7_SrEYRyoGXa2jmTEf0pKJVvm-0stW8u9Mc4bLPGLEip0TaknRJhWvrIhqadoEBBFQJB6Vm6j3Lu6XEx/w400-h400/IMG_20220418_192544.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Rosenthal. Hans has managed to create a rose that's not a rose, so freshly pulled out of the darkness and dusty, ambery and smoked, bitter to its bones, so perfectly beautiful in my books that it hurts. Its feeling is that of intimate sadness, a sorrow that is needed for a soul in order to heal, to revive, like a rose blooming out of its own ashes. Rosenthal shakes me from the ground, with my whole being, waking me up to a reality i can come to grips with. It seems infinite, as the possibilities we have to rise and continue on walking.</span></p>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-37184724006579837632022-05-02T10:44:00.001+02:002022-08-05T22:34:40.917+02:00Sampled this, sampled that<p><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojv7CyRQuI0zNoktF-TJlneM_rqpJLHPgJ2lNNZSpoSU0zWHqZgsdPkMYY4zxqOIRCjCKAKJ1N0H5LZtJA64yt1JrCKKw3nM2oMHlDBgEyIfWSCXCfb4AiODalcIn3FdCiZJq2tW8y4D9Y4mY5ljc3LO225keRA5OmBxZEKo1VshdXAy7ErtngmsX/w400-h400/IMG_20220418_203041.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; text-align: left;">Collage of: Picture 1, Mysore Classic and Mysore Vintage by </span><a class="notranslate" href="https://www.instagram.com/ahom_oud/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration-line: none; vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0">@ahom_oud</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; text-align: left;"> and Extract of Mysore Sandalwood by Crabtree&Evelyn; Picture 2, samples of A Fleur de Piel; Picture 3, samples of Angelos Créations Olfactives; Picture 4, L'Osmotheque raw materials; Picture 5 Kyara by DiSer.</span></span></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojv7CyRQuI0zNoktF-TJlneM_rqpJLHPgJ2lNNZSpoSU0zWHqZgsdPkMYY4zxqOIRCjCKAKJ1N0H5LZtJA64yt1JrCKKw3nM2oMHlDBgEyIfWSCXCfb4AiODalcIn3FdCiZJq2tW8y4D9Y4mY5ljc3LO225keRA5OmBxZEKo1VshdXAy7ErtngmsX/s1564/IMG_20220418_203041.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Santalum Album, the source of our precious sandalwood oil, a yellow-aromatic oil found in its heartwood that reaches maturity and it starts to build the perfect density when the tree is older than 30 years (the purest form of oil after the distillation is almost transparent). Due to its scarcity in the Mysore region of India and the government's legal ownership rights over the trees, the Santalum Album have been successfully planted in other countries in Asia and in the Northern Australia and although the plantations are still young (about 20 years old) the oil extracted is almost similar to the Mysore one (for more information on the theme, i recommend reading https://takeonethingoff.com/ and the chapters dedicated to reviews of sandalwood fragrances</span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">).</span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Sandalwood oil is one of the most complex single materials used in perfumery i know. Mysore's woodiness is freshly carved wet wood and it's slightly green (guava/lime-like), milky (lactonic) as the butter left overnight at room temperature, it's sturdy and it has a certain "human secretions" aspect (my friend Nikhil beautifully described it as "wet-lovemaking"). All of that is backed by a soft trace of dry-smoke.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br /> *<br /></span><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> It was hard to wear perfume lately. Even the process of choosing the scent of the day has turned, from one of my favorite activities, into a run on a dark corridor that has no end. The weight of a strange guilt is pulling me down and away from things that used to make happy. I wake up sometimes to glimpses of calmness and light, when i manage to pull myself out of the blackness and reach something outside of my familiarity.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Several days of those was about a small brand called A Fleur de Piel</span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> and its Xipres set, which contains three fragrances that play around bergamot, oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli, the accord that defines the chypre family.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> - Xipre Fresc, my favorite of the three, is an homage to fragrances as Eau de Rochas by Rochas, Eau Sauvage by Dior and Monsieur by Chanel. A clean and refreshing scent with a tinge of a classic eau de cologne. Verbena dominates the top, with its fruity/lemony freshness, where similar elements join to enrich its attributes by adding a bit of sour (bergamot), of spicy (cardamom) and a sparkle (ginger). Once the yellow starts to dissipate, the green steps in, with its floral, metallic, slightly sweet tonalities keeping alive the radiance, even though the base, which is airy despite the dark materials chosen to complete and continue the fragrance. Damp, rooty, earthy, salty and resinous/waxy unify Xipre Fresc.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> - Xipre Cuir. Sour and old-fashioned birch tar. A mix of Isobutyl Quinoline with aldehydes and savory aromatics with a pungent, waxy, smoky-airy, soft-floral and damp forest floor finality. It grows in the shadows of Bandit by Robert Piguet or Cabochard by Grès.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> - Xipre Verd, the trio's floral counterpart, is mostly a sour narcissus, although many other things hide it its trail to give it weight and sense. It feels very dry and astringent (acetone-like) - the greens are intense, spicy, bitter and terpenic; the florals austere and honeyed; the woods are cold -, yet rich and resinous. My second favorite.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> - Noi Nit came as a extra gift to my purchase and it's a dark minty chocolate inspired fragrance with a warm resinous and vanilla-like background. Interestingly, it has a cooling effect, pushed by the central accord, built on lavender - cacao - patchouli.</span></span></div><div><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> A few impressions of the materials we've received for the L'Osmotheque's digital conference "The animalic note in perfumery" (La note animale en parfumerie) that i participated at a few months ago:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Ambrarome 5% concentration (Synarome), derived from the resin extract of the labdanum, it's a resinous base with ambergris facets - salty, leathery, woody, soft incense tonalities, animalic, waxy -, traces of halitosis and a warm ambery aura.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Absolu Castoreum 5% concentration (Floral Concept). Animalic, of course, with leathery, smoky, salty, resinous, woody (dry, old wood) and virgin olive oil tonalities.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Essence Oud 1% concentration (Givaudan). Even in this concentration its olfactive profile is amazingly complex. It's animalic-balsamic, woody, leathery, cheesy, inky, slightly smoky, it has nuances that remind of Castoreum.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Infusion Pierre d'Afrique aka Hydraceum 5% concentration (Behave - Le Sourceur). Fecal and pissy, in between civet and castoreum, with leathery and dark chocolate facets, dried leaves and wood.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Absolu Civette 1% concentration (Floral Concept). Quite overbearing, especially at start, with a strong fecal and ammonia-like scent, characteristic that brings cheese to mind, honey-sweet with some indolic-floral facets, balsamic, resinous and waxy.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Paracresol 1% concentration (Givaudan). It's used to enhance the indolic facets of florals like jasmine, narcissus or to recreate the Ylang-ylang accord and other floral bases. Tarry-smoky, phenolic, leathery, almost floral - with a greasy-waxy-powdery mimosa-like feel.</span></span></div><div><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Being simple in a complex world is sometimes a paradox. Genuine even more. I like to surround myself with people in the same line. To be provided with either the wisdom that I lack, or, well, the confidence to achieve it by myself. I am too old to believe in tales, but young enough to still believe in virtue. And I have found it in this world of ours, in different hypostases and forms, without false artificers nor clad in idealism. I met quite a few good people in my life, and i mean GOOD people, the kind that would give you their jacket in a winter's cold. Angelos is one of them. He's genuine and humble and, despite of his shyness, he's cool-headed. He trusted his capacity to create Angelos Créations Olfactives</span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">, mastering as perfume maker after many years of perfume training. Angelos loves vintage perfumes and it reflects in his own creations, which have "an old" structure adequately adapted to our times. His fragrances own a sensibility that plays as leitmotif of their backbone. The latest launches, Figue de Vertu and Yloud-Yloud, follow fragrances in his line that set the bar quite high.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> - Figue de Vertu sizzles in a delicious coolness on the skin's heat. As Eau de Vertu's extension, Figue is lactonic, creamy and salty. It's less soapy and floral than Eau and more green and herbaceous. Bitter/fruity, sour, tart, savory, milky, oily, sweet, mineral, with an astringent woody edge. It smells like mid of Summer on the Mediterranean side. Of unripe figs crushed by bare feet, where sap meets skin, under leafy figs. And aromatic herbs, when it stop to absorb energy from light. Of flowers rising under citrus trees. The sea's saltiness on caramel skins.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">- Yloud-Yloud starts, curiously, with a carnation accord (eugenol and ylang-ylang), that shines through a mix of different type of ouds. The ylang supports the indolic quality of the oud, it does not show off other facets than the floral, but it's subtle. Its warmth and sweet powderyness are sleeping in a skunk bed, which it's not precisely fecal, but more leathery/animalic with a sour/ammoniacal tinge. The presence of nargamota in the oud accord, adds it its rooty/vegetal touches, pulling it out of the dry woodiness.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> *</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> I remember meeting Mr. Yasuyuki in 2017 like it happened yesterday. The simplicity and hypnotic elegance of his movements and gestures, the passion for what he has dedicated his life to, the love to share with others the work and advances of his scientific discoveries, all of that and our many conversations in time, have built my admiration towards his person and his knowledge. I couldn't stop listening to him speaking about his special technique of extracting the Kyara oud and its complex olfactive profile. Because of its scarcity it's one of the most expensive and rare aromatic material in the world, as nowadays it doesn't exist an artificially cultivated kyara, as it happens with other types of ouds.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Extracting the oil from the Kyara wood it's an extremely difficult task because if the method, specific solvents and a special control of pressure and temperature are not well chosen, can occur breaks in the molecular chain and many compounds that define the profile of the precious oud can be lost. It has taken Di Ser's team over 15 years to perfect their technique of extraction. Mr. Yasuyuki managed to catch all of Kyara's facets in this Extrait, and despite being considered as one of simplest types of oud, Kyara proves simple has a whole new meaning when its spicy aroma enriched with a touch of green herbs and a faint medicinal nuance of beeswax, sweetened by honey, and slightly smoky woodiness, shifts from a tonality to another with each movement.</span></span></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-62110197075350741822022-04-24T21:56:00.011+02:002022-08-05T22:34:55.997+02:00On the catwalk again<p><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0LujAI2QkYt2XGAKsSP8PLBSDz_hA2sm4o7hebP-GHIAXk8EIDWR94vXDPapx3bVkZ70CLhd-ZaC2ePyWLtAMaB17kYh0bnh36QPDi3zllY1V5JPwG7ySH69iXcjCG863_--HxoucD5_hohsTPaw8Rkg-UhwvYTVYP4WXONX76WWrpL0Dbdq9IGB/s1984/IMG_20220421_180005_resized_20220424_085245618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1984" data-original-width="1488" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0LujAI2QkYt2XGAKsSP8PLBSDz_hA2sm4o7hebP-GHIAXk8EIDWR94vXDPapx3bVkZ70CLhd-ZaC2ePyWLtAMaB17kYh0bnh36QPDi3zllY1V5JPwG7ySH69iXcjCG863_--HxoucD5_hohsTPaw8Rkg-UhwvYTVYP4WXONX76WWrpL0Dbdq9IGB/w300-h400/IMG_20220421_180005_resized_20220424_085245618.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> Masque Milano is a brand i respected for its coherence in concept, its outcome and the quality of their products. Things swift several years ago. Firstly, the replacement of their 100 milliliters bottles for the 35 ml ones, and, later, with the (slight) change in direction, when their marketing started to focus on a wider audience and their offerings adapted to a more mainstream market. It felt like switching from witnessing to a haute couture catwalk from the first row to an ordinary and unexciting fashion show. (Almost) Everything after Kintsugi and Love Kills fell flat. Madeleine was the only one waving desperately for attention, until i eventually saw it, despite its sugary-pink tutu. </span></p><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"> Now, should we prepare for a new Masque Milano fashion week soon? I'd say yes, because they are definitely up to the catwalk (again) with their new two releases and i must add, Chapeau for the awaking!. White Wale and Sleight of Fern are worthy of a show run on themselves and, ever since the trend, I'm in awe that a few fragrances that base on Ambroxan are so masterfully blended that the material doesn't literally jump at the neck and neutralize everything else in the composition.</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"> I define <i>White Wale</i> as Masque Milano's book - a scented Frankenstein - where the most beautiful parts of their other chapters - Kintsugi, Mandala, Times Square, Russian Tea, Hemingway, Ray-Flection - are put together as a complex structure, whose varied and irregular elements are properly assembled. </span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;">White Wale is endearingly sweet - not the usual tooth screeching caramel, more like a drop of honeyed-tea falling on clean skin - and sparkling salty. It starts in my favorite's aunt suede bag, home for her waxy red lipstick, her best-loved floral fragrance - not too bold nor too subtle -, an always present small box of violet candies for my sweet tooth, a few hair clips that penetrated everything around with a soft metallic scent and her most worn black leather gloves, and it ends in my nostalgia, longing for the days on the countryside - for mornings smoked by nights' fires and afternoons played in my wooden swing, my feet touching the earth while holding on to ropes that smell of roots and balsams, like my grandfather's hands.</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;">I've dreamed of a great fougère for the longest, living, until <i>Sleight of Fern</i> arrived, from pieces of the past, that despite of their simple compositions, were fulfilling my need for aromatic and barbershop. With Sleight of Fern I'd go as far as calling Stéphanie Bakouche my favorite modern perfumer for this particular genre. She built the perfect fougère, in my humble opinion, by fitting together aromatic and barbershop parts into a perfect balance, thinking every single molecule's effect into the whole. First comes the astringent punch - typical of classic aftershaves, with spices and thyme and sage undertones - then a dried-out-of-its-greenness lavender comes into play, summing its camphoraceous and licorice-like tonalities to the composition. At the next stage the fragrance grows on bitter and floral-aromatic, manifesting a turpentine nuance that goes on the rubbery side. Sleight of Fern ends where it should, on the forest's floor, softly inked, covered in the sweet greenness of hay and almonds.</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;">I guess I'm back on the front row of Masque Milano's haute couture show, impatiently waiting for their future releases. The present looks more than optimistic. </span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="font-family: times;"><i>Samples generously sent by the brand, opinions are my own and honest, as always.</i></span></div><div class="yj6qo"></div><div class="adL" dir="auto"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;" /></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8789800648642388915.post-40102529802694449972021-11-01T21:07:00.011+01:002022-08-05T22:35:13.382+02:00Otoñales<p><span style="font-family: times;"> Desde que tengo conciencia del perfume como objeto de arte, nunca he sido partidaria de su estacionalidad (o de su demarcación en cuanto a género, pero esto es otro tema que daría que hablar y mucho marketing que explicar). Me fascina la manera en la cual la naturaleza se estiliza con cada cambio de estación, haciéndonos participes en primera fila a sus desfiles haute couture. Al igual que me embruja una buena fragancia, equilibrada y pensada para encajar con la idea detrás de su composición. Una fragancia que no crea fronteras, si no emociones y da color a cualquier estado de ánimo. Pueden ser cítricos en medio del invierno o especiados en pleno verano. Nuestras opciones son ilimitadas, solamente nos tenemos dejar llevar por el impulso del momento, sin estímulos externos. Estas han sido las opciones de mi voz interior, entre muchas otras.</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;">*</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Conectados a través de sus resinas, Ruby Wood y St. Paul encajan perfectamente en el paisaje otoñal.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Ruby Wood es una rosa caramelizada con facetas de frutos rojos, en una interesante combinación con resinas cálidas, que juegan alrededor de un velo de oscuridad verde, brillante y ligeramente metálico. La rosa es dulce, vivaz y juguetona. Su dulzura se intensifica con gotas de caramelo, frambuesa picante y cardamomo picante, y se sustenta en una notoria oscuridad creada por la presencia del ládano que, combinado con pachulí y café, proporciona una calidad tanina leñosa, terrosa, resinosa e intensa que atraviesa la acritud cítrica de la rosa vertiéndose en el aroma trufado del vino tinto envejecido.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNTFpVGGh3TrVl8ePfyqKpcb5RUkXjIBQE2bUUjwuJNTiCl_IjfPIMd37vT2sZT2g485nGSjBvrKSUZOmrA_JcdgfqWoZITOCrISo2BL62RTDPntJIsKnSAiDguDTlGBREZlK18dG1J4/s2048/IMG_20200927_190829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1643" data-original-width="2048" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNTFpVGGh3TrVl8ePfyqKpcb5RUkXjIBQE2bUUjwuJNTiCl_IjfPIMd37vT2sZT2g485nGSjBvrKSUZOmrA_JcdgfqWoZITOCrISo2BL62RTDPntJIsKnSAiDguDTlGBREZlK18dG1J4/s320/IMG_20200927_190829.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: times;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> Los aspectos ahumados en la apertura, que recuerdan al incienso se unen al amargor cálido y aromático de la mirra y dan la impresión de agujas de pino ahumadas en su habitat natural.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> El secado está casi completamente monopolizado por el ládano confitado con motas rosadas e infundidas en la cremosa madera de sándalo ligeramente amarga.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> St. Paul tiene un olor casi eclesiástico. Es el último paso antes de entrar a la catedral y el primero al estar dentro. El ambiente exterior está dominado por una dulzura floral-frutal añejada en especias, polvo y nubes de hierbas. El interior es cálido, ambarino-resinoso, aromático, terroso con un etéreo lado amaderado: olibanum incrustado en las paredes de piedra y bancos que han absorbido en silencio el humo durante siglos.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> *</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3fTJO6qrAeJK_KQaLAkhUzypscdWIll_rGpr8_2n49rdbQe5TYAcH7jzy9CLWSJi8U_nGedTnSrHmj8kXgC0s1kWfQevA9LSVcKMDE4qZiYWdTZtZuw7DrXeF6nr3kwueJp0q8TEzTc/s2048/IMG_20201011_154453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1616" data-original-width="2048" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3fTJO6qrAeJK_KQaLAkhUzypscdWIll_rGpr8_2n49rdbQe5TYAcH7jzy9CLWSJi8U_nGedTnSrHmj8kXgC0s1kWfQevA9LSVcKMDE4qZiYWdTZtZuw7DrXeF6nr3kwueJp0q8TEzTc/s320/IMG_20201011_154453.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: times;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> Oscuro. Un cuento de amantes que narra la historia de un Caballero, con un corazón de hielo protegido por una armadura de acero, que cae rendido entre los brazos del amor. Un caballero, un hombre duro, un guerrero, un asesino, cuyo corazón está lleno de amor y cuya mente demasiado temerosa para mostrar esta debilidad. Una gran dosis de vetiver, como un aliento agudo y amargo, penetra el aire con su "masculinidad" montada en una silla sudada. Dominante. Ahumado. Su madera se impone al cuero en murmullos animálicos. El amor encontró la manera de meterse debajo de su piel y atravesarle el corazón, subiendo escaleras esparcidas con irises y rosas. Está perdido en un cielo que quema como infierno su frío corazón. Hermosa versión del vetiver en la única manera de Francesca. <i>The Black Knight.</i></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"> *</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">Led IV es inspirada en Going to California de Led Zeppelin, particularmente en los versos: “It seems that the wrath of the Gods got a punch on the nose and it started to flow; I think I might be sinking…Throw me a line if I reach it in time, I’ll meet you up there where the path runs straight and high”. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjN11OJT_yMjM73vX-4punB2kydZiigRUV1Ts0ZGdOFa73aFLSwDrP0rF9WXXVlqj-o65uYrGD_7mkGBm6MntXWmJMIq51iMO4m32DREIaDoksna0LcDgwAWhOstAaV913CTtwpZgSzI/s2048/IMG_20200528_200405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjN11OJT_yMjM73vX-4punB2kydZiigRUV1Ts0ZGdOFa73aFLSwDrP0rF9WXXVlqj-o65uYrGD_7mkGBm6MntXWmJMIq51iMO4m32DREIaDoksna0LcDgwAWhOstAaV913CTtwpZgSzI/s320/IMG_20200528_200405.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: times;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">("Parece como si la cólera de los dioses le asestaran un puñetazo en las narices </span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">y se hubiese desatado. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">Creo que estamos cayendo. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">Échame una cuerda. Si la cojo a tiempo, te encontraré allá arriba donde la senda </span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">se torna recta y elevada.")</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"> La esencia de Led IV es el pachulí. Las cualidades arómaticas de la artemisia contasta, con su lado herbal/amargo, las tonalidades terrosas, ligeramente ahumadas del pachulí. Junto a las resinas da la misma sensación de sequedad que L'Air du Desert Marocain e Incense Rose de Andy Tauer, solo que Led IV es mas sensible, menos imponente, mas calmado. Como un desierto al amanecer, entre oasis y palmeras, justo en la salida de una ciudad de piedra atravesada por un mercado de especias.</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"> *</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO3kQWlSsT98EVLP2xijZdciTljF2GxTArJ3bfQLcKgnKXoSFTMNJ_WGgjzPZdDbYhO6q6CPEwA1yH-kGpMkQ1PLgSg6nt1TKgRXMgQCSyU-cVEKIBb1C3i8U9CvQu8xKNYLDxe-HfhcI/s2048/IMG_20200725_122306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO3kQWlSsT98EVLP2xijZdciTljF2GxTArJ3bfQLcKgnKXoSFTMNJ_WGgjzPZdDbYhO6q6CPEwA1yH-kGpMkQ1PLgSg6nt1TKgRXMgQCSyU-cVEKIBb1C3i8U9CvQu8xKNYLDxe-HfhcI/s320/IMG_20200725_122306.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="text-align: left;"> Sangre y carne. Detrás de todos los terrores que su nombre pudiera esconder, la idea de </span><i style="text-align: left;">Vierges et Toreros</i><span style="text-align: left;"> era la de un nardo masculino. Bonito concepto, pero me vende una fragancia diferente a la que lleva dentro la botella. Es una fragancia frágil, a pesar de su jaula de acero: pieles mojadas interrumpidas por cueros sudorosos y una corona de flores blancas colgando de hilos de humo.</span></span></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> La capa de flores blancas indefinidas, encabezada por nardos (vierges) se encuentra entre el torero (el vetiver demasiado terroso) y el toro (costus).</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> La mezcla está muy bien definida, pero no se adapta a la imagen que se le da a la fragancia. No hay toreros, ni vírgenes, ni bustos desnudos frente al toro, solo hay un monstruo enviado a Minos para ser sacrificado en un laberinto sin salida. Y puedo sentir su dolor.</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"> *</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><i>Stash de Sarah Jessica Parker.</i> La clara evidencia de que se pueden crear perfumes (¡encima a manos de una celebridad!) de calidad nicho a precios muy asequibles.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7sRgwLQk2QPH6qmQoLBGxlvHuUanKGDlWan5CxgazVeQGPKP0BNRXNqCBJmM6G7nuLiyzV1IX0Y4vkfA5AZZHPHcLppIMigSoIF0q4yCRt5Idm0mtI262L3TFn9hqw-o1hIzXJ2UCzw/s2048/IMG_20170806_113634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1151" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7sRgwLQk2QPH6qmQoLBGxlvHuUanKGDlWan5CxgazVeQGPKP0BNRXNqCBJmM6G7nuLiyzV1IX0Y4vkfA5AZZHPHcLppIMigSoIF0q4yCRt5Idm0mtI262L3TFn9hqw-o1hIzXJ2UCzw/s320/IMG_20170806_113634.jpg" width="180" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Una fragancia amaderada, con carácter seco y pulido, que se sale de lo corriente. Stash se centra en la madera de Massoia, que raras veces he notado tan marcada y robusta en una fragancia, y la de sándalo, con sus matices lactonicos, mantecosos. Es un juego adulto entre sequedad y cremosidad, cayendo casi en la intimidad. Hay tocamientos herbales, picantes y minerales que se contienen tímidamente en patchuli y vetiver (sobriamente aportando esas tonalidades tan suyas de frutos secos y raíces), pero se avivan en el halo cálido del olibano, adulterando sus facetas alimonadas y de trementina ahumada.</span></span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #262626;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #262626; font-family: times;"><b>*</b></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgppoV6oj-P0kjBWMMjgz-1VahRWiQkG3dAeZGsOeqFJ-8ZWkYOQpAs-iiFw8oVLcH0hHBXENHn_zZEUccvDWyYrbj-mmlj2DvjeQ1XpRc_FjsMCO2vdROPxrBMCx2TGTip-GsaHQSpCKQ/w320-h240/IMG_20210712_192058.jpg" width="320" /></span></div></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><i>Opium</i>, esa GRAN fragancia de finales de los 70, siempre fue demasiado para mí. Me sentía como si estuviera disfrazada con cada uso, porque, en cambio, me estaba usando a mí. En 2009, cuando decidieron devolver Opium al mercado, fue (en ojos de muchos) una versión mutilada de lo que solía ser. Esta fragancia viene con una historia completamente diferente, que poco tiene que ver con su antiguo yo (me pregunto por qué la gente de YSL no se tomó el tiempo para nombrarla de manera diferente). A pesar de su nueva identidad me gusta, sigue siendo atractiva y más fácil de vestir. Jazmín - no demasiado indólico -, opopónaco, mirra, pachulí, clavo de olor, todas la notas y acordes desempeñan su papel por igual, creando un nuevo Opium, más vulnerable en comparación con el antiguo, pero aún fuerte y distinctivo.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><b>*</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"> Como una canción o una historia que me encantaba escuchar en infancia, una y otra vez, sin cansarme, <i>Narcis de Hendley Parfums</i> se eleva de la piel anhelando los viejos tiempos, como destello del presente, alegórico de un efímero amor de verano encerrado eternamente en lo más profundo del corazón, que sigue repitiéndose con cada latido sin sucumbir nunca al hastío ni a la desesperación. Prefacio a una vida de momentos fugaces que pasan como nubes de vapor despejados frente la claridad.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /></span></div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMTQeLNl3vooZdl-viypWnXkyoPDX5q3iUA9vqWKpm_xuG13J1oA9gc_WGIcQbRaVHyUqL3hWRBrcUa_EDMNuknNo-cjGFA6RH7asINMxWgL1Wzp5JoyA_1aU4XZkTJWZSvOYymPJUFI/s2048/IMG_20210712_193210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMTQeLNl3vooZdl-viypWnXkyoPDX5q3iUA9vqWKpm_xuG13J1oA9gc_WGIcQbRaVHyUqL3hWRBrcUa_EDMNuknNo-cjGFA6RH7asINMxWgL1Wzp5JoyA_1aU4XZkTJWZSvOYymPJUFI/w320-h240/IMG_20210712_193210.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></div></div></div><div><div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Junquillo absoluto, nardo, raíz de iris y unos pocos indoles espolvoreados sobre un suave acorde chipre, deliciosamente compuesto con musgo de roble, ládano, almizcles y tal vez un toque de cumarina - el dulce aroma de campo otoñal y almendra tostada - y cera de abejas, con su carácter meloso y ligeramente animálico, desembocan en una de las creaciones de narciso de lo más contrastantes.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> Las multicapas de Narcis sorprenden a medida que despliegan lentamente su simple complejidad en las carnes de su portador... como una canción o una historia para escuchar repetidamente, sin aburrimiento.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;">*</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqS8NAJBDcC4-f74AJoaCQWDuTM5ONg724xcSS2_QpMlnKbKXeZRJ9zgnoYzK1teB2gYaLRDxI6I5iZr2S-nTyx6ALTRA1oNUeE1IXt0oEv3H-nuo3OPqkra-TirKlqFNDmtaQNrRdUU/s2048/IMG_20201122_154821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqS8NAJBDcC4-f74AJoaCQWDuTM5ONg724xcSS2_QpMlnKbKXeZRJ9zgnoYzK1teB2gYaLRDxI6I5iZr2S-nTyx6ALTRA1oNUeE1IXt0oEv3H-nuo3OPqkra-TirKlqFNDmtaQNrRdUU/w320-h240/IMG_20201122_154821.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"><div><span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"><br /></span></span></div> Marie Salamagne está detras de muchas creaciones de diseñador y nicho que van un poco mas allá de lo comercial y del pseudo-nicho, pisando fuertemente un terreno reservado anteriormente al nicho, en su apogeo artistico, expresado a traves de creaciones particulares, inusuales y bastante versátiles (con alguna excepción - sí, Bois Sikar, estoy pensando en ti).</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Aura de Thierry Mugler, Amber Elixir Night para Oriflame, Ámbar para Jesus del Pozo, Splendid Wood para Yves Saint Laurent, Mandarine Basilic de Aqua Alegoria Guerlain, entre muchos otros, han salido de sus manos, definiendo el estilo de Marie como el perfecto balance de contrastes, entre tonalidades frias y cálidas.</span></span><div><span style="font-family: times;"> <br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Este particular estilo se ve claramente reflejado en <i>Alaïa</i>, que combina, por un lado, la picardía de la pimienta rosa con notas aeradas ambiguamente definidas como "aire de montaña" y florales crujientes (fresia y peonia) con un dulce frescor que resalta por su carácter puznante y citríco, y por el otro lado, almizcle con tonalidades herbales y animalicas complementado con un acorde de ante. Húmedo y árido, frio y caliente, fresco y seco, han fusionado para hacer realidad lo que Azzedine Alaïa soñó "como un arqueólogo sueña con esculturas de la antigüedad que yacen en el fondo del mar durante milenios, esculturas de cuerpos perfectos, solo igualados por las mujeres de hoy: una belleza ideal y atemporal."</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #262626;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Segoe UI, Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #262626;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b>*</b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Segoe UI, Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #262626;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: times;">“Lo primero que noté sobre Mumbai ese primer día, fue el aroma de un aire diferente… es el olor de dioses, demonios, imperios y civilizaciones en resurrección y decadencia. Es el olor a piel azul del mar, sin importar dónde estés en la Island City , y el olor metálico de la sangre de las máquinas. Huele a la agitación, el sueño y el desperdicio de sesenta millones de animales, más de la mitad humanos y ratas … Huele a diez mil restaurantes, cinco mil templos , santuarios, iglesias y mezquitas, y a un centenar de bazares dedicados exclusivamente a perfumes, especias, incienso y flores recién cortadas “. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">(Shantaram de Gregory David Roberts)</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyxYs74f6Ae7t8jauBwJ_WZFVT5Y4FPkO1ykfxR9JTCuHv9HOeKUZZKxCKjz5zofDHOj_INkbQMRAeK261_W3ffOCn-NKopngOLujoEF3mKMk7SZaPIan9sub3MIZ57N3EvfD6kREysY/s2048/IMG_20201015_175201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyxYs74f6Ae7t8jauBwJ_WZFVT5Y4FPkO1ykfxR9JTCuHv9HOeKUZZKxCKjz5zofDHOj_INkbQMRAeK261_W3ffOCn-NKopngOLujoEF3mKMk7SZaPIan9sub3MIZ57N3EvfD6kREysY/w400-h300/IMG_20201015_175201.jpg" width="400" /></a><br style="background-color: white; color: #262626;" /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;"> </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #262626;">Si una fragancia ha conseguido recopilar estos olores en su aroma, la primera que me vendría en la mente sería L'Elephant de Kenzo, pero siempre elegiría <i>Alahine de Teo Cabanel</i> para describir el contraste entre la opulencia y la pobreza de India. Es una fragancia oscura que invita sucumbirse lentamente a su candor disfrazado en impertinencia madura. Especias, incienso, flores secas y piedras de ámbar descansando en templos de mil y un dioses.</span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Segoe UI, Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #262626;"><span><br /></span></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><br /></div></div></div>Ana y el Perfumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10842071672533964083noreply@blogger.com1