Ani, Nishane (English and Spanish)
No Boundaries is the name of the line that Nishane launched at Esxence earlier this year and it includes Ani, Florane, Muskane, Nefs, Safran Colognise and Unutamam.
Ani`s concept and inspiration is one that melts hearts and glues them together as one under the sign of peace. Ani is a ruined Armenian city, now situated in Turkey close to the border that separate the two countries. Called The City of 1001 Churches, Ani`s splendor was suddenly muted during the 13th and 14th centuries, first by the Mongols, who captured and sacked the city, and later by an earthquake that diminish it to a village that soon fell into abandonment. Disputed by both countries during years, once symbol of Armenia`s magnificence, Ani`s beauty is now reduced to ruins whose walls hide the history of its prosperity and the darkness of its deterioration. It has inspired many poems and songs, one of the most beautiful poems, written by Hovhannes Shiraz, was turned into a song by the Turkish-Armenian composer Cenk Taşkan in 1999 on Ara Gevorgyan`s Ani album and reproduced by many artists since then.
Ani also inspired the Nishane`s No Boundaries line through an audible and fragrant message of peace when Cécile Zarokian, a perfumer of Armenian origin, was chosen to create a fragrance to represent its spirit. Cécile is well known for her special way of "playing" with spices, and although in Ani doesn't make much use of them it are here to support with their intense aromatic warmth other accords. I'm not aware if it was intentional or not, but Ani starts into an energetic burst of ginger and it dries down to a completely different scent, vanilla dominated, as almost an analogy to the town`s past flourishing years and the desolation and soulless of its present.
Ginger and citruses combine together to create a sharp and bright opening for a succulent heart of blackcurrant with a beautiful dusty vanilla accord in the background awaiting for the other notes to dissipate and to allow it to properly shine. This first phase is quickly taken over by a sweet tangy fruitiness enveloped in creamy and smooth woods - the argumentum ad populum dominating stage of the fragrance - where the blackcurrant`s sweetness is amplified by rose whose fruity-florals qualities are complemented with pink pepper. Although there is a crispy green scent with aromatic touches sofly cutting through the sugar-coated cassis fruits, it isn't recognizable as the ammoniac characteristics of their leaves, more as the intensive, sweet and fruity smell of the flowers.
After an hour of intensive sweetness and a short sour transition, the blackcurrant slowly loses its strength and vanilla grows in, dusty, powdery, almost antique-like smelling. Its resinous, slightly earthy and warm nuances are provided by a blend of benzoin, patchouli and ambroxan that together contribute to create a rounder, beautifully put together, vanilla accord, similar to the one Cécile used in Aura Sublime and Van-Île. The drydown is predominantly Ambroxan smelling like, with its mineral to wet stone tonalities, partly salty partly sweet.
If you love vanilla and don't mind it mixed with fruits that enhance its sweetness then Ani is where you should be.
During the Summer days the heat pushes Ani`s gourmand qualities to a high level, for which i suggest the colder months for its wear and maybe a different experience of its development.
Ginger and citruses combine together to create a sharp and bright opening for a succulent heart of blackcurrant with a beautiful dusty vanilla accord in the background awaiting for the other notes to dissipate and to allow it to properly shine. This first phase is quickly taken over by a sweet tangy fruitiness enveloped in creamy and smooth woods - the argumentum ad populum dominating stage of the fragrance - where the blackcurrant`s sweetness is amplified by rose whose fruity-florals qualities are complemented with pink pepper. Although there is a crispy green scent with aromatic touches sofly cutting through the sugar-coated cassis fruits, it isn't recognizable as the ammoniac characteristics of their leaves, more as the intensive, sweet and fruity smell of the flowers.
After an hour of intensive sweetness and a short sour transition, the blackcurrant slowly loses its strength and vanilla grows in, dusty, powdery, almost antique-like smelling. Its resinous, slightly earthy and warm nuances are provided by a blend of benzoin, patchouli and ambroxan that together contribute to create a rounder, beautifully put together, vanilla accord, similar to the one Cécile used in Aura Sublime and Van-Île. The drydown is predominantly Ambroxan smelling like, with its mineral to wet stone tonalities, partly salty partly sweet.
If you love vanilla and don't mind it mixed with fruits that enhance its sweetness then Ani is where you should be.
During the Summer days the heat pushes Ani`s gourmand qualities to a high level, for which i suggest the colder months for its wear and maybe a different experience of its development.
Thoughts. Cécile Zarokian is, next to Luca Maffei, Patrice Revillard and a few others (without including the indie perfumers), the elite of this new generation of independent perfumers. However, I must admit that there is a certain pattern in her latest work (Remember Me, Red Shoes, Café Cabanel) that keeps repeating in many great perfumers`s case nowadays, and under the brands` requirements, and that is the closeness of their work in the niche field to the mainstream market by following certain trends - like, in this case, fruity-gourmands - and by creating approachable fragrances that are heading out of the exclusivity zone in order to become visible to a larger audience.
I miss the golden era of Epic, Tango or Kashnoir and i hope she'll continue to work and evolve on that path, because, despite the wonderful message of no boundaries, some invisible limits need to be marked on the perfume market between niche and mass-appealing. She won't disappoint with Cabaret Nocturne for V/siteur, that's sure.
(A bottle of Ani of 15ml was gifted to me by the brand. Opinions are my own.)
I miss the golden era of Epic, Tango or Kashnoir and i hope she'll continue to work and evolve on that path, because, despite the wonderful message of no boundaries, some invisible limits need to be marked on the perfume market between niche and mass-appealing. She won't disappoint with Cabaret Nocturne for V/siteur, that's sure.
(A bottle of Ani of 15ml was gifted to me by the brand. Opinions are my own.)
Sin Fronteras
No Boundaries (Sin Fronteras) es el nombre de la línea que Nishane lanzó en Esxence, Milano a principios de 2019 e incluye Ani, Florane, Muskane, Nefs, Safran Colognise y Unutamam.
El concepto y la inspiración de Ani derrite corazones y los une como uno bajo el signo de la paz. Ani es una ciudad armenia en ruinas, actualmente situada en Turquía, cerca de la frontera que separa a los dos países. Llamada La Ciudad de las Iglesias 1001, el esplendor de Ani se vio repentinamente silenciado durante los siglos XIII y XIV, primero por los mongoles, que capturaron y saquearon la ciudad, y luego por un terremoto que la redujo a una aldea que pronto cayó en abandono. Disputada por ambos países durante años, una vez símbolo de la magnificencia de Armenia, la belleza de Ani ahora se reduce a ruinas cuyas paredes ocultan la historia de su prosperidad y la oscuridad de su deterioro. Ha inspirado muchos poemas y canciones, uno de los poemas más bellos, escrito por Hovhannes Shiraz, fue convertido en una canción por el compositor turco-armenio Cenk Taşkan en 1999 en el álbum Ani de Ara Gevorgyan y reproducido por muchos artistas desde entonces.
Ani también inspiró la línea de No Boundaries de Nishane a través de un mensaje de paz audible y fragante cuando Cécile Zarokian, una perfumista de origen armenio, fue elegida para crear una fragancia que representara su espíritu. Cécile es conocida por su forma especial de "jugar" con las especias, y aunque en Ani no hace mucho uso de ellas, están presentes en pequeñas dosis para apoyar con su intenso calor aromático otros acuerdos. No sé si fue intencional o no, pero Ani comienza con un estallido energético de jengibre y se seca en un aroma completamente diferente, dominado por la vainilla, como casi una analogía con los años florecientes del pueblo Ani y la desolación de su presente.
El jengibre y los cítricos se combinan para crear una abertura nítida y brillante para un suculento corazón de grosella negra con un hermoso y polvoriento acorde de vainilla en el fondo, esperando que las otras notas se disipen y permitan que brille adecuadamente. Esta primera fase es rápidamente consumida por la siguente que llega afrutada, picante y dulce envuelta en maderas cremosas y lisas, la etapa dominante de la fragancia, la ad populum, donde la dulzura de la grosella negra se amplifica con una rosa cuyas cualidades florales afrutadas se complementan con pimienta rosa. Aunque hay un aroma verde crujiente con toques aromáticos que cortan suavemente las frutas de cassis recubiertas de azúcar, no es reconocible como las características amoniacales de sus hojas, más bien como el olor intenso, dulce y afrutado de las flores.
Después de una hora de dulzura intensiva y una breve transición agria, la grosella negra pierde lentamente su fuerza y la vainilla sube en intensidad, polvorienta y lignina (causante del olor de los libros antiguos). Sus matices resinosos, ligeramente terrosos y cálidos son proporcionados por una mezcla de benjuí, pachulí y ambroxano que, en conjunto, contribuyen a crear un acuerdo de vainilla redondo, bellamente organizado, similar al que Cécile usó en Aura Sublime y Van-Île. El secado es dominado por el Ambroxan, con sus tonalidades minerales de piedras húmedas, en parte saladas y en parte dulces.
Si amas la vainilla y no te importa mezclada con frutos que realzan su dulzura, entonces Ani es donde deberías estar.
Durante los días de verano, el calor empuja las cualidades gourmand de Ani a un alto nivel, por lo que sugiero los meses más fríos para su uso.
Pensamientos sinceros. Cécile Zarokian es, junto a Luca Maffei, Patrice Revillard y algunos otros (sin incluir a los perfumistas independientes), la élite de esta nueva generación de perfumistas independientes. Sin embargo, debo admitir que hay un cierto patrón en su último trabajo (Remember Me, Red Shoes, Café Cabanel) que se repite en muchos casos de grandes perfumistas hoy en día - bajo los requisitos de las marcas, y esa es la cercanía de su trabajo en el campo de nicho al mercado comercial siguiendo ciertas tendencias, como, en este caso, gourmands afrutados, y creando fragancias accesibles que se dirigen fuera de la zona de exclusividad para hacerse visibles para un público más amplio.
Extraño la era dorada de Epic, Tango o Kashnoir y espero que continúe trabajando y evolucionando siguiendo ese camino, porque, a pesar del maravilloso mensaje de sin fronteras, algunos límites invisibles deben marcarse en el mercado de perfumes, entre nicho y comercial.
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