Esxence 2024, metamorphose?
…on one hand, yes, on the other not so much. Yes to metamorphosing into a new venue, which offered more space and enough room to not elbow into each other despite the crowdings. Yes to not getting knocked-out on the first step at the entrance by any (punching) Ambro-woody materials. After years of enduring pain the air felt clearer and breathable again. Thankful for the importance accorded to the educational (purpose) companies like L’Osmoteque, Le Nez, CFF and other magazines dedicated to perfumery and also for the large conference room, where some of the most interesting workshops and experience labs were held.
No to the lack of opportunities of the organization towards the smaller brands (with no investors behind); if we want creativity and quality in perfumery, they need as much support as possible. A booth at the event costs an arm and a leg and although I noticed more representation on their side compared to past years, the crowds (buyers included) were showing more interest towards the strategically placed money-makers (aka ostentatious presentations + grotesquely unbalanced liquids), than to the artistic/finer compositions. The gold diggers had, in my humble opinion, an 80% presence compared to those that dared to use their inner voice in a more creative and qualitative way.
(If you really, truly enjoy fragrance and appreciate its art, pay the money for what's inside, never saw anyone carrying around a bling-bling bottle in a coffin cage only to show off.)
THE highlight, as in past years, was the human connection and the kindness of people I met and will forever stay close to my heart. Like Michelle Tillis Lederman wrote in 11 Laws of Likability, “It is through the strength of what is genuine that meaningful connections build into relationships.”
(Over the years I got better at staying away from synthetic sympathies.)
Second highlight was, of course, perfume. Good ones. And I'm sure i missed quite a few. I didn't even bothered to stop at the all-of-our-fragrances-share-the-same-base booths given that this year a total of 360 brands were present at Esxence and neither my small feet had enough force to carry my body where they were or my brain to be fed up with nonsense. And, besides, I wasn't in the mood to lose all of my nose hairs. Although… Nevermind.
Enough of the bad, we are familiar with their shadows, let's start with the good things.
The best newcomers, in my books:
Tombstone Fragrances and BU FENG - two brands from China under the same umbrella, whose concept showcased coherence between storytelling, decorations and fragrances. Tombstone Fragrances “for the living and the survived, towards the fear or welcoming of death.” The name for each of their fragrance couldn't fell flat, literally.
“No Need to Come by”, “Sing at my Funeral”, “Sweet Coffin”, “His Lordship’s Backyard Roses” and “3 Feet 5” make justice to their inspiration and are immediate attention grabbers.
BU FENG (Catching the Wind) explores Chinese culture through Chinese folktales on heroism and heroes. For the moment they offer three fragrances: Drunken Jade, Elegant Jade and Holding the Sword.
(I searched for the expression on the internet but i only found bù fēn, which means not divided, unisex.)
Xiao Lan, creative designer and perfumer for the majority of the fragrances, introduced me to each of the fragrances in both lines with a grace I'll never forget.
(At the same booth I had the chance to smell two beautiful natural fragrance-oils, whose names I don't recall, that offered an extraordinary olfactory experience.)
New (or upcoming) launches that caught my attention:
Violette Kew by Le Jardin Retrouvée, Pelagos by Dusita Parfums, The Mariner's Rhyme by Francesca Bianchi, Phyltre by Hiram Green, Dormir al Sol by Frassaï, Catherine by Masque Milano, Blanc de Chine by Parfumeurs du Monde, Magic Mushrooms by Bohoboco, Hyperion by Rubini Profumi (although it's still under works), Cuir 404 by Indult, Santal Wagasaii by Maison Encens.
Le Jardin Retrouvée had one of the most endearing presentations for its new launch, which started with a short session of meditation held by Clara herself, followed by the revelation of the new fragrance’s name - Violette Kew by the hands of its creator, Maxence Mouette.
The event culminated with everyone drooling over Clara's violet ice cream, which was delicious. The fragrance? Delicious as well… in the most sensual possible way. Nothing to do with candy-sweetness nor powdery innocence. Cumin and a soft leather accord turn it upside down. I assure you, all the other violets are blushing.
Pissara dared to venture into creating a masculine fragrance. We all know what she does with the flowers, but did she managed to shine the woody aromatics?
With Pelagos Pissara takes us in a different direction than she has us used, a woody aromatic with an aquatic touch. People might be surprised and dismiss it only based on that and it wouldn't be fair to the beautiful composition, which goes on the classic side with a present touch. It's uplifting and breezy, grounded and aired. It's the gentleman from once that adapted its cane and top had to the modern times.
The Mariner's Rhymes is Francesca's way of adding a missing piece to the collection in her own terms.
It's marine, yes, but done in her unique style. It's oakmoss grown on damp woods bathed by stormy waves. Saltiness pierced by sun rays and bottles of rum floating adrift.
In my culture carnation is often associated with death, the flower is its portrayal and this takes it to the grave. I never allowed this detail to affect my judgment towards the flower itself nor the fragrances centered around a carnation accord.
On the contrary, they always stirred my curiosity given there are so many different accords to recreate the smell of the flower and one really has to love carnations in order to enjoy Phyltre by Hiram Green, since the fragrance is its mirrored reflection.
Dormir al Sol by Frassaï made Milan 's gloomy sky glow. It's a mimosa dressed in heavier ingredients.
It instantly put a smile on my face with its joyful scent and charmed me with the complexity of its composition.
Gardenia is my favorite white flower in perfumery and I was pleasantly surprised to find two outstanding fragrances with the flower’s facets displayed outstandingly. Catherine by Caroline Dumur for Masque Milano, one of the three new additions to Le Donne di Masque collection,
and Blanc de Chine by Patrice Revillard for Parfumeurs du Monde. My heart stood still and listen to their mermaid song.
Two very different gardenias, each marvelous in its own way.
Magic Mushrooms, Michał Gilbert Lach's latest creation for his own brand, Bohoboco, is the perfect depiction of an artistic fragrance.
A fragrance that does justice to its name, I can't imagine a better suited name for this creation. It's weird but it takes you on an unique olfactive journey.
Cuir 404 by Indult is actually a spicy vetiver with herbal tonalities. The notes weren't disclosed to me, so I'm basing my opinions on the smell itself. There's bergamot and lemon in the beginning that adds a sour to bitter character to the top and some cloves to give a spicy touch to the woodier base. It's made to smell classical and timeless, fact that adds even more value for any vintage lover that wants to smell modern.
Maison Incense, an extremely underrated perfume brand with great creations in its range, launched three new fragrances: Santal Wagasaii, Rose Ūmeii and Osmanthūs Shiborii.
My favorite was Santal Wagasii, a surprising fragrance through its creamy woodiness and sparkling particles of citruses. Everything sits on an alive muskiness that heats and purrs...
Some of the new lunches i got the opportunity to smell outside the fair were:
Anatole’s Lebreton upcoming line, Freaky Fragrances. A dear friend and I have been lucky enough to be one of the first people to try three fragrances, which are not only different from each other but also from the main line, providing a different perspective of the perfumer’s exceptional skills.
I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to smell some creations of my friend and very talented parfumer, San Saruj. His fragrances are impressively well blended and finely executed.
Gallivant will introduce a limited edition fragrance called Nida (in the near future).
It's a soft floral fragrance with woody and ambery facets.
I had a brief yet unforgettable encounter with David from Toskovat who handed me a few samples. Last Birthday Cake stood out to me last year when it was still in trials and it continues to be a favorite now that it was launched. The fragrance shows a clear evolution in terms of composition offering much more balance in the formula. Most gourmands go against my religion, but I wouldn't mind losing it over this one.
Palazzina Appiani hosted Nishane’s annual party in Milan and it shined the name of the brand in the night’s darkness. To say it was outstanding it's an understatement.
Nishane added two new tuberose centered fragrances to their lines: Shinanay by Angelos Balamis, to the Experimental Collection, an animalic, dark and richer vision of the flower that takes the breath away
and to the X Collection, Tuberóza X by Dominique Ropion a clean and voluptuous rendition to the flower. Both, masterful compositions.
Time Machine by Renier R. Mendez for Le Frag. One way or another Aga always manages to surprise us with her fragrances. Their quirkiness is undeniable and each’s uniqueness unwraps bits of Aga’s flamboyant personality. After briefly trying Time Machine, I might have affirmed it as my favorite in the range. I must retest it, but I'm usually in the right at first sniff.
Things i re-smelled and still collaborate with my soul:
Shah'Ryar by Rania J. You haven't smelled rich and dense if you haven't tried this one. I was hesitant about the presence of a caramel accord but it adds the right level of sweetness to the spices and although it contains a considerable amount of a woody-ambery material, it's so skilfully blended with the rest of notes that i couldn't even notice it... It showed up on the blotter the second day after i sprayed it.
Tilia by Olfactive Pharmacy. The olfactory journey that Tilia takes me on is unbeatable... I'm laying on a bench, back in my hometown, in the middle of June, while shadows of the linden flowers play cathing sunlights on my cheeks.
Ribot by Masque Milano, way out of my league and one of those rare birds in golden cages, is a leather à la Antoine Lie. The hay in it is just as luxurious as the delicate leather.
Alessandro left behind an unforgettable legacy for the perfume world. The seeds of the love and acceptance he gently planted over the years will endlessly bloom in our hearts.
I metamorphosed into this year's Esxence. I absorbed all the energy, I took the good and left the bad behind, I smelled and enjoyed each experience to the fullest, I had fun and i laughed.
My boots are not made for walking at the moment, but my mind is wandering…
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