domingo, diciembre 30, 2018

A step ahead of 2018


Year after year we, the bloggers, sit down in front of the laptop and try our best to summarize the greatest of the new releases. Every year I find it more difficult to put together such list. First of all, because of the large (immense would be a more appropriate word) number of new fragrances and the impossibility of testing all of them, and secondly, because as we know, a perfume is something personal and, in consequence, subjective.
The (few) perfumes I have chosen are, according to my criteria, memorable, bring a breath of fresh air to an oversaturated market and have created enough sentimental material to weave in me new emotions and dreams. 

A line that I discovered this year and that opens a portal between present and past, creating a wonderful connection between new and classic, is Exaltatum London.
Osmathus Noble, the first introduction of the brand, is a traditional elegant fragrance that plays with a soft and sensual suede chord on a cold and dusty iris and a warm heart of tobacco.
Pergola, the last release, opens the heart of the spring itself to flood the air with its green, fresh and warm aroma. Hyacinths and daffodils are mixed with green and almost aquatic elements on a dry base of oak moss. Timeless!



The Lover's Tale by Francesca Bianchi. Intense, dense, daring. Although it turns out to not be a fragrance for everyone's liking, it's definitely worth experimenting and allowing it to properly evolve, because after the huge opening, in the heart and, respectively, in the dry down the mix of birch tar and castoreum softens considerably leaving enough space for the flowers and the peach to shine on with their presence, and to, later, discreetly merge into a deep, warm and powdery laudanum. That's where the magic resides. Wonderful!



Y06-S by Blackbird, although it came out in 2017, was not released until April 2018 in Esxence, Milan. At least is where i was introduced to its skankiness. A very realistic banana that gets lost in a field of indoles and ends up on a vinyl record, struggling to find its way in between the smell of plastic and synthetic woods. It sounds, and it is, quite futuristic, but if you survive to the not-so-modest opening, it is an interesting and novel composition.
Extravagant!



Blond by Hendley Perfumes. The name fits like a glove. A dark and animalic leather that thanks to a narcotic bouquet of white flowers and a clean musk is transformed into a velvety suede with woody touches of sandalwood. Elegant!



L'Iris de Fath. The recreation of Fath's famous Gray Iris comes from the hands of Patrice Revillard, a young promise of the modern perfumery. Patrice has managed to create a multifaceted and multidimensional iris, starting from its buttery and milky facets to the shades of carrot seeds, apricot and violet leaf, all on a dense base of woods and oak moss. Beautiful!



Veil de Oliver & Co., an explosive combination of ozonic, mineral and metallic notes and chords recreated with ginger and aldehydes, iris, rose, violet, patchouli and amber. Unique, original, definitely creative!



The Gardener's Glove of St. Clair Scents. A garden in the height of summer, flowers, tomato leaves and leather gloves. A bunch of flowers hold by the astringent greenery of the tomato leaves covering a butyraceous leather that brings memories of my grandfather's leather gardening gloves.
Sweet memories!



Paper White and Eau Cerise by DSH. A green chypre created especially around a paperwhite daffodil that dances innocently with its aroma mixing tuberose-jasmine and hyacinth in one, and an oriental with a ripe heart of bitter cherry and flower crown on a mossy and woody base. Classy!



Special mentions:

Bois Sikar from Atelier des Ors. A fragrance based on dried tobacco leaves and whiskey that create an olfactory effect of being close to a bonfire while next to it a barbecue is prepared. I love it, although I see it a bit difficult to wear.

Daria by Sammarco. A beautiful recreation of gardenia with honeyed specks where an indolic jasmine plays an important part.

Although my nose or skin don't agree with any of Chloé's fragrances, this year they've pleasantly surprised me with Nomade. Quentin Bisch has created this unusual classic/modern. In Nomade he succeeded to recreate the classics of the 60s mixing in the right amount fruity, floral and mossy elements in order to obtain a contemporary fragrance. Still, I find the aroma chemical compounds they used quite irritating in the first two hours.

Here is where my 2018 ends. I wish you all a Happy New Year and many new wonderful illusions! Thank you for being by my side during 2018, for reading and commenting on my publications and most of all, thank you for sharing together with me the love for this amazing art.

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