domingo, diciembre 30, 2018

A step ahead of 2018


Year after year we, the bloggers, sit down in front of the laptop and try our best to summarize the greatest of the new releases. Every year I find it more difficult to put together such list. First of all, because of the large (immense would be a more appropriate word) number of new fragrances and the impossibility of testing all of them, and secondly, because as we know, a perfume is something personal and, in consequence, subjective.
The (few) perfumes I have chosen are, according to my criteria, memorable, bring a breath of fresh air to an oversaturated market and have created enough sentimental material to weave in me new emotions and dreams. 

A line that I discovered this year and that opens a portal between present and past, creating a wonderful connection between new and classic, is Exaltatum London.
Osmathus Noble, the first introduction of the brand, is a traditional elegant fragrance that plays with a soft and sensual suede chord on a cold and dusty iris and a warm heart of tobacco.
Pergola, the last release, opens the heart of the spring itself to flood the air with its green, fresh and warm aroma. Hyacinths and daffodils are mixed with green and almost aquatic elements on a dry base of oak moss. Timeless!



The Lover's Tale by Francesca Bianchi. Intense, dense, daring. Although it turns out to not be a fragrance for everyone's liking, it's definitely worth experimenting and allowing it to properly evolve, because after the huge opening, in the heart and, respectively, in the dry down the mix of birch tar and castoreum softens considerably leaving enough space for the flowers and the peach to shine on with their presence, and to, later, discreetly merge into a deep, warm and powdery laudanum. That's where the magic resides. Wonderful!



Y06-S by Blackbird, although it came out in 2017, was not released until April 2018 in Esxence, Milan. At least is where i was introduced to its skankiness. A very realistic banana that gets lost in a field of indoles and ends up on a vinyl record, struggling to find its way in between the smell of plastic and synthetic woods. It sounds, and it is, quite futuristic, but if you survive to the not-so-modest opening, it is an interesting and novel composition.
Extravagant!



Blond by Hendley Perfumes. The name fits like a glove. A dark and animalic leather that thanks to a narcotic bouquet of white flowers and a clean musk is transformed into a velvety suede with woody touches of sandalwood. Elegant!



L'Iris de Fath. The recreation of Fath's famous Gray Iris comes from the hands of Patrice Revillard, a young promise of the modern perfumery. Patrice has managed to create a multifaceted and multidimensional iris, starting from its buttery and milky facets to the shades of carrot seeds, apricot and violet leaf, all on a dense base of woods and oak moss. Beautiful!



Veil de Oliver & Co., an explosive combination of ozonic, mineral and metallic notes and chords recreated with ginger and aldehydes, iris, rose, violet, patchouli and amber. Unique, original, definitely creative!



The Gardener's Glove of St. Clair Scents. A garden in the height of summer, flowers, tomato leaves and leather gloves. A bunch of flowers hold by the astringent greenery of the tomato leaves covering a butyraceous leather that brings memories of my grandfather's leather gardening gloves.
Sweet memories!



Paper White and Eau Cerise by DSH. A green chypre created especially around a paperwhite daffodil that dances innocently with its aroma mixing tuberose-jasmine and hyacinth in one, and an oriental with a ripe heart of bitter cherry and flower crown on a mossy and woody base. Classy!



Special mentions:

Bois Sikar from Atelier des Ors. A fragrance based on dried tobacco leaves and whiskey that create an olfactory effect of being close to a bonfire while next to it a barbecue is prepared. I love it, although I see it a bit difficult to wear.

Daria by Sammarco. A beautiful recreation of gardenia with honeyed specks where an indolic jasmine plays an important part.

Although my nose or skin don't agree with any of Chloé's fragrances, this year they've pleasantly surprised me with Nomade. Quentin Bisch has created this unusual classic/modern. In Nomade he succeeded to recreate the classics of the 60s mixing in the right amount fruity, floral and mossy elements in order to obtain a contemporary fragrance. Still, I find the aroma chemical compounds they used quite irritating in the first two hours.

Here is where my 2018 ends. I wish you all a Happy New Year and many new wonderful illusions! Thank you for being by my side during 2018, for reading and commenting on my publications and most of all, thank you for sharing together with me the love for this amazing art.

Resumen 2018 (Español)


Es ya una tradición para casi todos los bloggers de sentarse, año tras año, en frente del portátil y resumir lo mejor de los nuevos lanzamientos. 
Cada año se me hace más difícil realizar tal lista. Primero, por la gran cantidad de nuevas fragancias y la imposibilidad de probarlas todas, y segundo, por que como ya sabemos, un perfume es algo muy personal y bastante subjetivo.
Los (pocos) perfumes que he elegido son, según mis criterios, memorables, traen un soplo de aire fresco en un mercado saturado y han creado suficiente material sentimental para tejer nuevas emociones y sueños.

Una línea que he descubierto este año y que abre un portal entre presente y pasado, creando una conexión maravillosa entre nuevo y clásico, es Exaltatum London.
Osmathus Noble, la primera introducción de la marca, es una fragancia elegante tradicional que juega con un acorde de ante suave y sensual sobre un iris frío y empolvorado y un corazón cálido de tabaco.
Pergola, el último lanzamiento, abre el corazón de la misma primavera para inundar el aire con su aroma verde, fresca  y cálida. Jacintos y narcisos se mezclan con elementos verdes y casi acuáticos sobre una base seca de musgo de roble.


The Lover's Tale de Francesca Bianchi. Intensa, densa, atrevida. Aunque resulta ser una fragancia nada fácil de llevar para muchos merece la pena experimentala y dejarla evolucionar, porque en el corazón y en secado el alquitrán de abedul se ablanda considerablemente dejando que las flores y el melocotón hagan notada su presencia para más tarde fundirse discretamente en un láudano profundo. Allí es donde reside la magia.


Y06-S de Blackbird, aunque salió en 2017, no se dio a conocer hasta april 2018 en Esxence, Milán. Una banana muy realista que se pierde en un campo de indoles, fecales y putrefactos, y termina en un disco de vinilo con olor a plástico y maderas sintéticas. Suena, y es, bastante futurista, pero si sobreviven a la apertura nada modesta, es un composición muy llevadera e interesante.


Blond de Hendley Perfumes. El nombre le queda como un guante. Un cuero obscuro y animalico que gracias a un narcótico ramo de flores blancas y un musgo blanco se transforma en un ante aterciopelado con toques amaderados de sándalo.


L'Iris de Fath. La recreación del famoso Iris Gris de Fath viene de las manos de Patrice Revillard, una joven promesa de la perfumería moderna. Patrice ha conseguido crear un iris polifacético y multidimensional, partiendo desde sus facetas mantecosas y lechosas hasta las tonalidades de semillas de zanahoria, albaricoque y violetas amaderadas, todo sobre una base densa de maderas y musgo de roble.


Veil de Oliver & Co., una combinación explosiva de notas y acordes ozonicos, minerales y metalicos recreados a base de jengibre y aldehídos, iris, rosa, violeta, patchuli y ámbar. Único, original, definitivamente creativo.


The Gardener's Glove de St. Clair Scents. Un jardin en pleno verano, flores, hojas de tomate y unos guantes de cuero. Maravilloso.


Paper White y Eau Cerise de DSH. Un chipre verde creado especialmente para un narciso Paperwhite que baila inocentemente con su aroma mezclando nardo-jazmín y jacinto en uno, y un oriental con un corazón maduro de cereza amarga y corona de flores sobre una base musgosa y amaderada.


Menciones especiales:

Bois Sikar de Atelier des Ors. Una fragancia a base de hojas de tabaco seco y whiskey que crean un efecto olfativo de estar al lado de una hoguera mientras al lado se prepara una barbacoa. Me encanta, aunque lo veo un poco difícil de llevar.

Aunque no me reencuentro en ninguna fragancia de Chloé, la casa me ha sorprendido gratamente con su Nomade. Quentin Bisch ha creado un clásico/moderno algo inusual. En Nomade intenta recrear los clásicos de los años 60 mezclando en la cantidad justa elementos frutales, florales y musgosos. Aún así, encuentro los aroma químicos usados bastante irritantes las primeras dos horas.

Hasta aquí el resumen de 2018.

Les deseo un Nuevo Año con salud, felicidad, suerte y con muchas nuevas ilusiones. Qué 2019 sea muy por encima del 2018! Les agradezco haber estado a mi lado durante este tiempo, leyendo mis publicaciones y comentando, y por haber compartido juntos el amor por este arte.

viernes, diciembre 21, 2018

A Scent of Christmas/ A Perfume Carol


  
  Inspired by A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens and Scrooge's travels throughout the spirit world i let myself guided by the ghosts of past, present and future or better said by the scented choices i made, make and I'll make and their consequences in my perfume journey.

Unlike Scrooge, a man whom is tortured by his past, i am thankful for my fragrant past because it represents the first brick of my knowledge and of whom i am today.
There were two fragrances that chose the 11 years old me as an apprentice and shaped the perfumista I later become - Dune by Dior, a warm and sweet woody fragrance with a mature, seductive and mysterious aura, and Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana, an uncommon banana on top of an aldehydic floral. Two artful fragrances that woke up in the child of me unknown feelings and emotions that contributed to my progression in the perfume world.

The present, although blurry and lost in a cacophony of categories that seems to no longer define each other or at least to clearly separate one from the other, is marked by three fierceful fragances - Fundamental by Rubini, The Lover's Tale by Francesca Bianchi and Pergola by Exaltatum London. 


Fundamental, or a juxtaposition of opposite elements which combined create an original scent that lifts up in the air like a cloak of cleanness, powderness and unwashed bodies combined with the mustiness of the Soave grape recollection, managed to find an equilibrium between its components creating a beautiful contrast among the sweetness of a honeyed fruity aperture, the saltiness of the base, the iris and the buttery sandalwood, in between the present and the past.


The Lover's Tale is a dense fragrance with pointed teeth, is strong and daring, and it doesn't melt into the wearer skin becoming one like it happens in Under my Skin' case. It's a leather only for the bold ones, whose elements combine to perfection to create this powerful potion that sets a high standard for the others of its kind. 

Picture from Exaltatum. 

Pergola is a reminder of how beautiful Spring is when it wakes up from its hibernation. A classic, and timeless, fragrance that realistically recreates the scenery of green, sunshine and fresh air. With a sharp opening that last a blink of an eye, the hyacinth and the sweet narcissus start to shine over a fresh greenery with a dry galbanum and oakmoss background.
Eglija tried to reconstruct an uncommon fougère without using the notes that represent this genre by replacing them with green smelling flowers and fresh and marine-like green accords and she absolutely succeeded.

The future, hopefully brighter and clearer, will (hopefully again) be influenced by (a weareble) creativity. I've tried only a few of the upcoming fragrances and from those i have high hopes for V/siteur, a line of three fragrances inspired by its founder's different experiences in time - Pensão Amor (not sure if this name will be the final choice), Thousand Lakes and Beach Bizarre.



Pensão Amor, Cécile Zarokian's creation, it is a tuberose based fragrance.
Nothing strange about the fact that V/siteur's founder, Janne, created a tuberose for this line given his well known love for the flower and his search for the perfect fragrance to represent it. The question is if his tuberose succeeds to add something new to the actual (over)saturated perfume market, especially to this genre. And the answer would be mostly yes. Mostly because at a certain stage of its development, and only by bits, it reminded me of another vintage and daring tuberose, and yes because it most certainly brings something new to the panorama, thing i wouldn't thought to be possible after the Nuit de Bakélite release.
This is definitely not a sweet rendition to the flower nor a green one, it's some sort of "plasticky" sexy dressed tuberose. "Inspired by a night venue in Lisbon that in the past used to serve as a brothel. In present day it is a pulsating bar where the young go to enjoy themselves and forget about everyday life." With a decadent vibe in vintage Poison style, Amor Pensão immediately made think of a well experienced Madame looking intimidating at the working girls, from the second floor inner balcony, while smoking a cigarette, hidden from the foreign eyes behind a cloud of smoke, powder and sweat.

I never had the opportunity to enjoy the beneficial effects of a northern sauna in its own territory in order to understand its purpose, neither to familiarize with its specific smell, but according to an Estonian friend of mine, Thousand Lakes seems to reflect the exact atmosphere of a sauna.
Thousand Lakes, created by Marie Schnierer, is all about an almost mineralized warm skin and wet smokiness that catches up all the humidity in the air transforming it into invisible bubbles that break into a silent explosion of small particles of sweat... so primitive, yet so sensual.

Beach Bizarre is my favorite from the line, as i find comfort in its strangeness. Coming from the hands of one of the perfumers who brought back L'Iris by Fath to life - Patrice Revillard, Beach Bizarre is supposed to represent a sudden panic attack while in a tropical paradise. For me, personally, is like taking a (naked) bath in the ocean under the Moonlight, in the loneliness of the dark waters, surrounded only by the noise of the silence.
Slightly metallic and salty, with an elegant floral touch that cuts through the sharpness of the seaweed, Beach B infuses into the skin of its wearer with a peaceful warmth and specks of green. "The endless rumbling the ocean attracts."


The choices we made is what represents us as whom we are today. Past is past, we live the present and prepare for the future.
My advice: Live always as the best version of yourself.

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy 2019! For many perfumed years to come!