Jorum Studio (overview)
So many positive reviews on Jorum Studio's line made my curiosity tremble a bit until i finally got the chance to test it and this is my experience, you might find it different from the others'.
Trimerous or "three parts" Goddess. Trimerous seems like a frutier/lactonic take on the original Dior Homme and its lipstick-powder core. Its opening reflects into a beautiful sweet and milky apricoty aroma (peach plus orange do that) over the suede and the powdery side of the fragrance - and togheter it almost gives the feeling of Osmanthus. Bitter aromatics step in (thyme and a bit of camphoraceous lavender) - without taking over with their strong and pungent smell - to contribute with their herbaceous touch and give Trimerous an overtone of "wildness". Whiffs of smoke spark through the fragrance's bone with low intensity but present enough to make itselves noticeable (togheter with the peachy fruitiness and the suede accord makes me think of the alluring Tian Di by Frassaï). I don't get any animalics out of it, only a clean-feel of the white musk in the base that merge into a very soft balsamic blanket. The powdery never leaves though, the lipstick-like scent stays around for the long as the fragrance last... and sadly, that isn't much on my skin, but if you are like me and don't mind reapplying it for the experience's sake, keep on spraying. Although i already own Tian Di - which satiate my thirst for peachy/suede perfection and Dior Homme for one of the best powdery lipstick recreations, Trimerous's subdued beauty charmed me.
Nectary. This rose reminds me of David Yurman for Women, only frutier - i see the same fruit accord as the one used in Trimerous, but here is sweeter, tart-like and creamier. Again, as in Trimerous, i don't get the animalics, which makes me think that the perfumer used those particular notes only to add more depth and richness to the rose - and he did a great job at this chapter. There is a honeyed sugarness surrounding the rose besides the ripen fruits and a noticeable muskiness. This is a dense, beautifully crafted rose if you bear sickly sweet. (Not me.)
Phloem. Fresh, fishy, sour, sweet and green. Jam. Salty skin. Sugar. Pimentos and a bit of sweat. Jam. Vegetal muskiness. Mmm, smoke. Sugar. Sugar. Sugar. And sweat again, with sugar.
Carduus. This is the most unusual of the line. I'm usual into weird, as I'm one of the bunch - an introvert with complicated ideas and a mass of knowledge and feelings that allows the intellectual capacity to be at times neutralized by my tender-hearted side despite my ability to adapt, think, rationalise, change, learn, analyze and act.
Carduus is canceling my thoughts and allows the emotions to step in. I'm not sure it's for the best or for the worse - but it's awaking something in me. A strange spicy booziness comes out of nowhere roaring at me for a second and it suddenly goes away leaving me wondering if there was any trace of booze in the opening or my mind just made it up. Licorice. Then an aromatic dryness enters the stage dragging an almost invisible sweetness that throws in a most medicinal manner into the vegetal wall gently defended by Jorum's signature musk, a dusted thread of smoke served with costus and coated into what to my nose resamble to Iso E Super.
Arborist. It doesn't work for me. This is woods that haven't washed in a while so they're drown in (unpleasant) sweat. Yes, BO. First of all let me tell you that i love cumin in fragrances if used wisely, it adds a touch of sweaty-skin, in a sensual way. There's no cumin in Arborist although the sweat is here and it's salty. I have negative reaction to the fragrances that use Ambroxan and my guess is that Arborist does contain this molecule, despite of not being listed. The dry woody accord (a bit of cedar added there) combined with balsam is almost oud-like smelling (the synthetic oud, of course, used in so many fragrances for the past years) - with a touch of animalic (from saffron with its leathery facets - close to smelling castoreum from a certain distance). I like dirty, but this definitely not my kind of dirty.
Medulary-Ray. Sour this time, to make a difference. Medulary-Ray is like a bitter / aromatic salad with spices, savory juicy fruits (pomegranate and red berries), burnt-sugar flakes with a hint of smoked woods and seasoned with olive oil. A simple composition.
Thanks to Ecuación Natural for the samples. I couldn't recommend more their service.